Hotel Palazzo Barbarigo Sul Canal Grande

First impressions of the Hotel Palazzo Barbarigo Sul Canal Grande differ greatly depending on whether the guest approaches from the water or the street. Arrival via water taxi means a wide-open view of the 16th-century palazzo before docking between the striped mooring poles typical of Venetian entrances and stepping through the water door. On the other hand, guests who arrive on foot walk down a long alleyway the width of the door to what is essentially the back entrance, and it can be difficult to find. Inside, the dark, dramatic decor that characterizes the hotel begins in the small lobby, with black marble floors, tufted crushed red velvet seating, and many mirrors -- even on the ceiling. The long, slim legs and curved panels of the Art Deco furniture in the lobby correspond to that of the guest rooms. Off the lobby are the chic, intimate breakfast room and the small library, the latter with gorgeous original ceiling beams.

Directly on the Grand Canal, the Hotel Palazzo Barbarigo Sul Canal Grande is in bustling San Polo, Venice’s oldest neighborhood. Many shops and trattorias are within easy walking distance, and the wonderful Rialto Market, known for its fresh fish and vegetables, is an 11-minute walk away. It’s a 15-minute water taxi ride to Piazza San Marco. On foot it's five minutes to the Scuola Grande di San Rocco and 12 minutes to the Teatro la Fenice. The Doge’s Palace is a 15-minute vaporetto (public water bus) ride and walk or a 20-minute walk; the Guggenheim takes 13 minutes by vaporetto and foot. From the hotel it’s a four-minute walk to S. Tomà, the closest vaporetto stop. The Venice Marco Polo Airport is 18 to 24 minutes by car, depending on traffic, or 34 minutes by public transit.

The hotel’s 18 rooms and suites share its dramatic flair. All beds are four-posters, with thin curved dark-wood posts that match the legs of all the furniture. The fabric covering the oval headboards mirrors the wallpaper, and flirty lamps have red lampshades with red-feather borders. Most rooms have black marble floors and red velvet chairs with tassel skirts, though some have wood floors. Only the suites have Grand Canal views; those on the second floor are particularly stunning (and those rooms are less disturbed by the sounds of boat engines). Regular rooms have somewhat less scenic views of the smaller Rio San Polo. Rooms are adequate if not spacious, with a bit of room around the bed and adequate storage space, but even the poshest suites are just larger rooms. All come with minibars, safes, and smart flat-screen TVs. Most bathrooms have black marble floors, though some have chic stone floors and walls. All have bidets and showers but none have tubs; hairdryers, robes, and slippers are standard.

For all its glamour, this hotel doesn’t have much in the way of amenities. There’s no restaurant on-site, so guests have to leave the hotel in search of food (or dine on bar snacks) -- hardly a hardship in Venice, but possibly an inconvenience. The breakfast room has black velvet chairs, crushed red velvet curtains, and hanging red tassels. The free breakfast is generous, with plenty of meats, cheeses, fruits, pastries, cakes, and coffee and tea, and happily there’s no cutoff time -- allowing guests the luxury of sleeping in. The second-floor bar is dark and intimate, with a fireplace for cool evenings and a terrace on the Grand Canal perfect for a sunset drink. A small library off the lobby has a selection of books and the beautiful ceiling beams original to the 16th-century palazzo. Laundry service is available for a fee, and there’s free (if not very fast) Wi-Fi throughout the property.