Hospes Palau de la Mar Hotel

Guests enter Hospes Palau through a towering set of carved wooden doors with elaborate iron grillwork, restored from the building's original 19th-century incarnation. The lobby arches soar, and a marble stairway with carved wooden railings winds upstairs. A dark wood plank floor draws visitors into the depths of the building toward the ultra-modern (but subtle) front desk that somehow blends perfectly with the historic vibe of the entrance.

The large central courtyard has an industrial Zen bent, with lots of metal and wooden decking, gorgeous plants, and seating areas tucked into quiet corners. The lounge bar is done in black with white leather seating, softened by glowing light from towers of parchment covered cubes. There are stained glass windows throughout the public areas, and a striking modern art-y skylight with painterly swaths of color. The hotel successfully balances incredible visuals with a feeling of tranquility.

Hospes Palau is near Valencia's historic city center, on a wide, pretty boulevard lined with shops, restaurants, and bars. The river is nearby as well -- lined with gardens, park areas, and sports facilities -- and the high-speed railway station, with service to Madrid, is about a fifteen minute walk away. Reaching the breathtaking City of Arts and Sciences complex requires a 10-minute drive or half-hour walk, with public transportation available as well. Hospes Palau has parking, but ask for directions because the entrance can be difficult to find.

Guest rooms at Hospes Palau are oases of calm, with modern, elegant design elements. Ask for a room with a tub; not only are they larger, but the freestanding baths practically beg guests to climb in for a soak. Some bathrooms also have shutters that open into the main room. Housekeeping leaves sprigs of lavender on guests' pillows -- a Zen variation on chocolate. All rooms have flat-screen TVs, but many are tiny compared to those in most hotels. Rooms facing the inner courtyard are less noisy than those facing the street.

The fitness room at Hospes Palau is so pretty guests may not want to sweat on the (horizontal!) wood paneling. Bodyna, the full service spa, has a wellness area with hot tub, deck, and lounge chairs, as well as treatment rooms and an extensive menu of massage and beauty treatments. The lounge bar serves cocktails, tea, and coffee as well as the Mexican drink, horchata. Ampar, the hotel restaurant, derives its dishes from local produce and fresh fish, and has an extensive wine cellar. The morning buffet is delicious and the breakfast room is a stylish antithesis to a cafeteria.