Candles in the Wind

Candles in the Wind opened in 2001 and despite its no-frills price-tag, is a great budget option for open-minded visitors. The entryway’s bright and makes a cheerful first impression, with a triple-high ceiling, skylight, and a grand staircase with chunky banister. Overhead, a small crystal chandelier hangs from the wood-slat ceiling with an active bird’s nest nestled in its center (be prepared for a bird or two swooping by). The three-story building’s full of wide, slightly dark hallways that connect the guest rooms and two full-kitchens. There’s also a ton of outdoor space and balconies, but we wish there were more outdoor seats to enjoy the laid-back backpacker vibe. Guests are mostly budget travelers under 40 from the U.S. and Europe, but Caribbean islanders are also drawn to Candles. Light sleepers might want to consider elsewhere, though, as the incessant shrieking of the neighbor's birds and barking dogs can be a problem day and night.

Without a doubt, Candles in the Wind’s central location in Crown Point is its biggest selling point. It's located in a mostly residential neighborhood, just off the town's main drag. Within a five-minute walk are a minimart, bars, and multiple restaurants, including Trinidadian, Middle Eastern, Italian, and barbecue options, as well as an ice cream shop. The closest beaches are Swallow’s Beach, with its great bar and sunset views (a 10-minute walk), and the sometimes crowded Store Bay Beach, which is a 14-minute walk from the guest house. Pigeon Point Beach, one of the island’s most beautiful, is a 10-minute drive. Tobago Main Ridge Forest Reserve, the world’s oldest legally protected rain forest, is a 90-minute drive away and a great spot for hikers. Getting to the Tobago, visitors often take either the two-and-a-half-hour ferry from Port of Spain to Scarborough or a 25-minute flight to ANR Robinson International Airport. The Scarborough ferry terminal is 25-minute drive from Candles, while the airport is a five-minute drive away. 

Rooms at Candles are simple and dated, with a flourish of the owner’s artistic taste. Walls are off-white with prints of artists like Klimt and Monet, and decor is otherwise almost dorm-like, with floral-pattern sheets, mismatched tile floors, and simple wood-veneer furniture. All private rooms have air-conditioning, ceiling fans, and double or twin beds (or a combination of both) with wrought-iron headboards. The most surprising features are the small internet-enabled flat-screen TVs (it’s possible to use Netflix or Chromecast) and DVD players. The top floor dorms are more spartan and includes 22 beds, fans, lockers, a living room with a TV, weight bench, and two shared bathrooms. Unfortunately the dorms are not air-conditioned.

Bathrooms are basic, with tile walls and floors, stall showers, and bar soap (it’s a full-size bar gets passed on from one guest to the next). There’s also a shared iron and ironing board in the guest house’s common space. Wi-Fi is available in all rooms, but is not free. It's also worth noting that light sleepers may be woken up by the constant noise coming from neighboring residences.

Many guests note the owners go out of their way to help guests, though otherwise features are undeniably slim at this budget guest house. There are two shared kitchens that include gas ranges and ovens, full-size refrigerators, toasters, electric tea kettles, microwaves, and cooking utensils. Another great offering are the free washing machines (although laundry detergent can’t be purchased on-site). There’s a huge DVD and book lending library, and bicycles are available to rent for a fee. The hotel can arrange airport transportation, island tours, and snorkeling and diving trips. There’s also free gated parking, but Wi-Fi is sadly not available for free.