Relax Bay Resort

Like its hand-painted signs and rambling grounds, this resort here is casual and unpretentious. Sandy paths lined with mismatched planters and potted greenery wind around the rust-colored, thatch-roof bungalows hidden throughout the jungle and along the beachfront. The open-air lobby, painted a pronounced mustard-yellow with red columns and green ceiling beams has little in the way of decor. The front desk, propped by stacked bricks and surrounded by chalkboard signs and surfaces scattered with pamphlets provides the check-in point. Seating can be found at the neighboring restaurant area, filled with colorful Chinese lanterns and a wood deck that overlooks the beach and quiet bay. Travelers with mobility issues (or lots of luggage) should note that the resort is on a hillside with a long flight of steep stairs. In sum, Relax Bay Resort is a laid-back, unfussy property devoid of any high style. But guests appreciate the chill vibe and the disconnect from modern life.

The resort is located on the secluded Relax Beach and Bay, which is just south of Phra Ae (Long Beach), and a 15-minute drive from the ferry pier in Saladan town. It's a very quiet and peaceful spot, reminiscent of a Thailand before its tourist boom, as there is very little development on the beach -- no high-rises or five-star hotels. The property is accessed via a small lane, about a 15-minute walk from the main road, which has shops and restaurants. There's a long set of stone steps down to the resort and beach from the parking lot though, which may deter those who have limited mobility, although there's a resort access road for those that need it. 

Relax Bay Resort has 37 bungalows scattered over a hillside and along the beach. While the bungalows are old-school in their appearance (read: thatch-roofed and fairly basic), they do have some charming touches including hardwood flooring and large windows. Furnishings are minimal with platform beds in dark wood, crisp white bedding, Thai-silk throw pillows, and wood nightstands. Walls tend to be painted a vibrating yellow or bright russet red. The entry-level rooms only have fans and no air-conditioning, but they do have electric kettles, safes, and mini-fridges. Notably missing are any TVs, and the in-room Wi-Fi signal can be unreliable, and in some cases, nonexistent. The best rooms are the VIP air-conditioned ones, as they sit right along the beach and include large outdoor terraces furnished with patio sets and fabric hammocks. Bathrooms have terri-cotta-tiled floors and walk-in showers.

Although Relax Bay Resort is a no-frills, back-to-nature hideaway, it does include some nice facilities. A small garden swimming pool with a paved sundeck gives a spot for a cooling dip, although there's just a few loungers. Families will be happy to note it includes a shallow kiddy pool. But the far more popular draw is the beach itself, an isolated wide swatch of white sand looking onto calm turquoise waters. Shaded daybeds, beanbag cushions, and hammocks all give spots to loll about. Another popular draw is the Viva Zapato Bar sitting right on the sand. The bar serves up cocktails and other cold drinks throughout the day and evening, with fire shows being held during the high season months. The resort's beachside, open-air restaurant offsets its dark-wood deck and tables and chairs with a cheerful cluster of brightly colored Chinese lanterns. A free breakfasts is served here. Given the remote location, most guests take lunch and dinner here as well, with Western and Thai cuisine options available. There's also a small massage area as well as an on-premise dive shop and outfitter for arranging trips and classes during the high season. Wi-Fi is free throughout, but it can be unreliable.