Relais Santa Anastasia

This ancient Benedictine abbey is a laid-back, agritourist escape nestled within the Sicilian countryside. Juniper and olive trees surround rows of grape vines, which in turn surround the low brick and stone buildings that are punctuated by arched windows and doors. Cobblestone courtyards are lined with flowers and palms and dotted with benches, tables, and decorative antique oxcarts, while the lobby has a warm and inviting aesthetic, with plaid sofas and love seats, stone archways, and wood-slat ceilings. There are plenty of cozy places for guests to relax, from a reading room to a billiard room, and there are gardens and terraces seemingly around every corner. The hotel has two restaurants and a bar, all with a similar rural atmosphere, and winding vineyard paths. Most guests are couples, but there are some families, too. 

Within the Madonie hills of northern Sicily, this hotel is not central to any urban conveniences, but that’s the point. The closest town is Castelbuono, which is a 15-minute drive over winding roads and looks lifted straight out of a storybook, with a castle-topped hill at the center of the town’s cluster of red roofs. There are several authentically Sicilian places to grab a bite in Castelbuono, including Ristorante Palazzaccio for traditional fare and Fiasconaro for pastries and sweets. Tranquil farmlands spread out in every direction from the hotel to the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea, which is a 20-minute drive from the hotel. There are beaches in nearby Cefalu, another charming Sicilian town on the Tyrrhenian coast, which is about 25 minutes from the hotel by car. Palermo is just over an hour’s drive from the hotel and the Palermo Airport, the closest major airport to the hotel, is 30 minutes farther.

Many of the rooms at this hotel embody the same rustic quality of the hotel’s public areas, with plenty of details that reflect the hotel’s setting in the Sicilian hills. Rooms come in an array of sizes, from Singles to Grand Suites, which are multi-room apartments. In some rooms, light green walls and bright tempera-style floral wall art complement warm wood-and-tile floors, beamed ceilings, vintage sconces, and antique furniture like roll-top desks and wardrobes. Rooms are warm and inviting, though some of the furniture shows a bit of wear and tear that doesn’t seem intentional, and the thin bedspreads can look dated. All rooms include modern conveniences like individually controlled air-conditioning, electric safes, small flat-screen TVs, and mini-fridges with minibars, while beds are comfortable, with decorative panel headboards and comforters. Deluxe Rooms have additional seating with attractive antique hardwood benches and small love seats, while Junior and Grand Suites can accommodate families and small groups. Tiled en-suite bathrooms are spacious and clean, with heated towel racks, decent-size vanities, stand-up showers and toiletries. Some Deluxe Rooms have terraces that look out onto the hotel’s courtyard and hills beyond, and while nearly every room feels private from the rest of the hotel, there can be some internal noise issues due to thin walls.

This hotel is ideal for wine lovers as it produces a wide selection of organic Italian wines from Traminers to Nero d’Avolas, and walking through the vineyards and wine cellar can be especially delightful and horseback rides can also be arranged. Despite the historic, rural setting there are plenty of modern features. The outdoor pool and hot tub are a nice way to unwind, and are set within a wide terrace among palm trees with lounge chairs and views that extend all the way to the Tyrrhenian coast (guests should keep in mind that the pool is seasonal). The hotel’s breakfast buffet is free with all bookings and features hot and cold options, while on-site La Corte dell’Abate Restaurant offers traditional Sicilian dishes with a modern edge in an upscale setting, though guest reviews are uneven. There are lots of opportunities for guests to unwind here, including a billiard and TV room, though the reading room is a highlight and has a fireplace, stone walls, vaulted wooden ceilings, vintage leather armchairs, and a warm red motif. The hotel is an ideal destination for weddings and other intimate events, with an event space that can accommodate up to 100 guests, as well as its stunning grounds and in-house catering. There is an extremely spare 24-hour fitness center on site with one stationary bike and a few cable machines while an on-site spa offers an array of treatments and massage programs, though the setting isn’t the most tranquil or chic that we’ve seen in this price range. Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel and there is free self-parking on site. Babysitting services can be arranged for guests with small children and the 24-hour front desk can provide concierge services, including bike rentals.