Pousada de Sagres – Charming Hotel

What started in 1942 as a Portuguese government program to develop its historic sites has given way to a network of pousadas -- small, simple hotels -- that fall into three categories: historic, monumental, and charming. The Pousada de Sagres, Infante lives up to its designation as the latter. Its scenic clifftop location-- among trim lawns and palm trees -- makes a striking first impression, and interiors have a traditionally elegant style created by a mix of Art Nouveau tapestries, sleek modern furniture, sober brown and blue color schemes, and local details like azulejo tiles. As such, the atmosphere is proper, but laid-back. In other words, a guest wouldn't feel tempted to run around in a dripping wet bathing suit, though the vibe is relaxed enough that no one would think twice if it happened.

The hotel's secluded setting on Ponta da Atalaia means that there are views of the sea, the coast, the cliffs, and the sky are in all directions. However, as a small boutique property, features are limited. A small pool stays quiet throughout the day, and the bar is calm even in the evening. During our visit we almost exclusively saw retirement-age couples, keeping the Pousada stays quiet day and night (even when it's at or near capacity, as it was during our visit). Expect to come across plenty of tourists from Germany, France, and the U.K. Most guests spend the day out exploring the natural surroundings and beaches, returning for a quiet drink and dinner in the evening.

Set atop Ponta da Atalaia, the Pousada's location is its best feature, with views of sea, beach, cliffs, and sky in almost every direction. Paths along the clifftops start just beyond the hotel and can be accessed directly from the property. If you're lucky, you might glimpse dolphins or orcas in the crashing surf below. There's little to hear all around but the sound of the ocean, and the only neighbors are a pair of quiet residential-style hotels. It's about a 10-minute walk to the center of Sagres, which is home to a clutch of laid-back bars and restaurants ranging from traditional Portuguese joints to backpacker-style dives and trendy foodie haunts. Vila Velha, a two-minute walk down the road, was one of our favorite finds during out visit, with a massive menu that does everything from fish to Indian convincingly well. The closest beach is Praia Mareta, which is a 10-minute walk from the hotel. It's a five-minute drive to the Sagres Fort and surfer-friendly Praia Tunel. Sagres is quite isolated, and a rental car will be helpful to navigate the area -- it's a 75-minute drive to the airport in Faro, or three hours to Lisbon.

While the hotel's public areas handsomely blend traditional and modern details, the rooms are more humble. Decor is bright and cheerful, consisting of pink, green, orange, and white fabrics and soft furnishings, plus fun details like fruit-filled glass lamps next to the beds. The look is a bit country, with antique-inspired desks and wicker chairs for seating. Hardwood floors add a rustic element to the style. We did spot a bit of wear on furniture and fixtures during our visit, though it's not enough to make for an unpleasant stay.

Balconies, while likewise worn, are set with tables and chairs, and feature views of cliffs, the sea, and town -- many have unbeatable sunset vantages across the water to Sagres Fort and the lighthouse in the distance. Welcome snacks greet guests -- a nice touch we didn't otherwise see in Sagres. The beds are made with fluffy white down duvets and down pillows, helping to up the cozy factor on what are otherwise firm mattresses. They're available as twins or doubles.

Other features include flat-screen TVs, air-conditioning, minibars, and free Wi-Fi that worked well during our visit. Irons and electric kettles are available for free on request. Bathrooms are a bit dated, with travertine floors, tube hairdryers, bidets, and spacious marble vanities. Shower/tub combos include handheld and large rainfall showerheads, and the hotel provides citrus-scented toiletries. 

As a simple boutique hotel, features are a bit limited here, and the hotel lacks a spa and gym (though there are plans to add them in 2017 or 2018). The hotel's lower floor is made up of a series of connected rooms that include a cozy game room and a sharp lounge with a TV and DVD player. This opens onto a spacious bar featuring a marble fireplace that's lit in the winter. In the warmer months, the adjacent outdoor terraces host Gin Cocktail nights, with the bartenders slinging drinks crafted from Portuguese spirits. 

The restaurant consists of multiple rooms and terraces all oriented toward the sea -- views are best from outside. In the morning, a free buffet includes standard continental fare like yogurt and pastries, plus hot and cold options, plenty of vegetables and fresh fruit, and local breads, jams, and other products. The coffee -- unlike many hotel buffets -- was strong and excellent during out visit. Lunch and dinner are also served, and the menu at night includes locally caught fish and themed fortnights, like the wild boar menu that was served during our stay.

Capitalizing on the views yet again, the pool sits cliffside amid a manicured lawn. There are just a few lounge chairs and a sunbed, though it's rarely crowded. A tennis court is also available, and the hotel has a bike-and-surfboard rental shop that's open in high season. While there is no dedicated concierge, the hotel's WhatsApp messaging service acts as one around the clock. Wi-Fi and parking are both free at the hotel.