Memmo Baleeira Hotel

The Memmo Baleeira Hotel has broad appeal and is a contemporary alternative to Sagres' many surfer hostels and holiday rental apartments. Situated at the end of Sagres' main drag, the Baleeira feels tucked away and a bit rustic at first-- low pine trees dot the sandy grounds and create an almost woodsy atmosphere. The hotel's interiors, though, are sleek and minimalist; trendy without trying too hard. Shades of white, oak, gray, and soft blue feel appropriate for the hotel's marina-side location, and the blend of retro-inspired furniture, bold contemporary art, and hand-crafted details come together nicely. The black-and-white pictures of the hotel in its original incarnation add a nice historical touch to the decor, furthering its subtle off-vintage charm.

Because of its style and resort-like features, the hotel appeals to a wider swath of travelers than most properties in the area. During our stay we saw everyone from middle-aged groups of European cyclists to young friends, couples, families, and retirees. The common areas are bustling and lively throughout the day, but never hectic. As rooms are removed from the central areas, they also manage to stay quiet day and night. Rates at the Baleeira are generally lower than at its major competitors -- the Pousada de Sagres and the Resort at Martinhal -- making this a real value in laid-back Sagres.

The Baleeira feels more secluded than it is, tucked away amid pine trees and the hotel's walls just above Sagres' marina. There is a clutch of simple pastelarias just next to the hotel, and fishermen and tourist excursions depart from the harbor below. Sagres' little strip of bars and restaurants -- ranging from local joints to lively pubs to trendy, foodie spots -- is about 10 minutes away on foot. The beaches are also within an easy walk. Both Martinhal and Mareta Beaches will take under 10 minutes to reach on foot as well. Most guests will want a car, or at least to rent a bike, to reach some of the area's more historic sights. It's a bit under 10 minutes by car to the Sagres Fort, which is adjacent to surfer-packed Tunel Beach. It will take 10 minutes to reach the town's iconic lighthouse by car as well, which is a popular spot to view sunsets. The nearest airport is in Faro, which is a 75-minute drive from here, while Lisbon is about three hours away by car.

When it comes to style, there's little deviation from one room to the next, despite a few variations in layout and bed configurations. All rooms are compact, and done in a fresh, modern style that includes handsome curtains, light wood laminate floors, streamlined oak and white pieces of furniture. It's all perfectly appropriate for the hotel's seaside setting, and the minimalist style manages to stay fresh (and likely will for some time). The hotel's 39 suites are housed in a separate wing of the hotel, and include one- and two-bedroom options with living rooms and sofa beds. 

Standard features include medium-size flat-screen TVs, individually controlled air-conditioning, free Wi-Fi, minibars, and free safes. Bathrooms are spacious, but not huge, with shower/tub combos. Floors will get a bit wet as there's only a panel of glass covering part of the tub area. There's plenty of vanity space, plus Damana toiletries and bidets. Many suites have master bathrooms that include separate walk-in showers and soaking tubs. Most rooms have small balconies with chairs that look out over the marina, though some lack any outdoor space. Despite being one of the area's livelier hotels, it was almost silent at night during our visit. Try to wake up for sunrise on at least one morning -- the views from the ocean-facing side of the hotel are spectacular. 

A number of features are packed into the Baleeira's admittedly small package, helping to make this a smart choice for staying in Sagres. The hotel's outdoor pool is small, but surrounded by a decent-size terrace as well as seating on the lawn. This means that despite being nearly full during our visit, we didn't see anyone fighting for space. Don't expect loud DJs or dance parties -- this isn't that kind of hotel. A pool bar is open during the summer and waiters are available during that time as well. The indoor pool is likewise small, but heated, and has a sleek design that looks out onto the lawn outside. Towels for the pool and beach are free. 

There's also a steam room and three treatment rooms for spa services, though during our visit we didn't see anyone using the spa. A small fitness room has a few pieces of modern cardio equipment and a limited set of light free weights. TRX bands are an unexpected bonus, and nice addition for anyone up on exercise trends.. Windows help keep the space bright.

We spotted lots of guests milling about in the hotel's first-floor nerve center, consisting of a beach boutique, trendy bar, and lively restaurant. Sharp, retro-inspired Scandianvian furniture is set throughout the compact dining room, and opens onto a wide terrace with views across the pool, marina, and ocean. It's a lovely place for an afternoon cocktail or dinner, and food includes local seafood and twists on traditional Portuguese dishes. The bar stays lively, but not loud, into the evening. An extensive breakfast spread is free, and consists of hot and cold dishes, standard continental fare, great local meats and cheeses, and a large selection of healthier options like dried fruit, granola, seeds, and nuts. 

The hotel also has a small kids' room, ping-pong table, and shop renting bicycles and surfboards. It can be a bit confusing getting around the property, as certain amenities reside in various wings, and it's necessary to use specific staircases and elevators to reach them. Staff explain this upon arrival, but it's still possible to get lost. Wi-Fi is free and fast throughout most of the hotel, but didn't work in the breakfast room. Parking is also free.