Residenza Paolo VI

Housed inside a 19th century Augustinian monastery, Residenza Paolo VI is the only hotel on St. Peter’s Square. The building itself is austere, with a brick facade, clean lines, and a low, white marble wall separating the quiet courtyard from the street. Interiors are classic, with heavy drapes, a gold, red, and dark-green color scheme, and elegant wooden furniture. The lobby has marble floors, wood accents, ornate gilded lamps, and paintings of past Catholic popes. Couches in an adjacent room offer additional seating and while there are elegant touches like polished parquet floors in some parts of the hotel, at it's core this is a simple property that's best used as a base for exploring the city. The rooftop terrace is the hotel’s biggest hit, with panoramic views of St. Peter’s Square and Basilica, and the Apostolic Palace. Stone planters filled with greenery, and an oval-shaped fountain make for a memorable scene on the terrace, where guests -- typically middle-age couples -- can be seen taking in the sweeping views. 

Residenza Paolo VI is as close as one can stay to St. Peter’s Square. The hotel sits directly across the street from the famous colonnade surrounding the square, and is within easy walking distance to all of Vatican City’s attractions, including the Sistine Chapel, the Tomb of St. Peter, the Vatican Gardens, and Castel Sant'Angelo. Piazza Navona is a 20-minute walk from the hotel, but the rest of Rome’s most famous sights -- including the Colosseo, the Spanish Steps, and the Trevi Fountain -- are a little too far to comfortably reach on foot. Public transportation is easily accessible, which makes moving around Rome easy and cheap (so long as there aren't any strikes). The Ottaviano Metro stop is a 15-minute walk from the hotel, and there are several bus stops within three blocks. Trips to the airport by car or cab can take 30 to 45 minutes depending on traffic, and Termini Station is a 15- to 20-minute ride from the hotel, though it can be reached by metro in 25 minutes.

The hotel has 35 compact rooms, all equipped with flat-screen TVs, minibars, air-conditioning, safes, and free Wi-Fi. Delicate wall moldings, ornate wooden furniture, and paintings of Vatican architecture add a classical charm to most rooms. Many rooms -- like the Maderno Deluxe Room that we saw -- have sharp touches like antique night stands and padded headboards. Standard Rooms are a little spartan, though, with just two twins or a double bed, plain wooden furniture, and mostly bare walls. These have just enough space for the bed, a closet, and either a small desk or two bedside tables. Junior Suites are the largest and most appealing option, with a small seating area with two armchairs and a coffee table, antique-style furniture, wooden floors, chandeliers, and intricately patterned area rugs. Bathrooms are variable as well. Some are basic or dated -- like the Junior Suite bathroom with slightly discolored grout between tilework -- while Standard Rooms have sharp modern bathrooms with gleaming white tiles, shower stalls, and rainfall showerheads. Guests seeking extra-quiet accommodations should consider the six courtyard-facing Deluxe Superior Rooms, which have a separate entrance on the second floor. 

Aside from the hotel’s location, the biggest draw is the rooftop terrace, offering panoramic views of Vatican City, and daily bar service that starts in the afternoon. The busiest days here are Wednesdays and Sundays, when the Papal audiences and Angelus take place. Guests can get an unobstructed view of jam-packed St. Peter’s Square from the terrace, and the hotel offers free tickets for the audiences. However, the deck area closest to the square is fenced-off except during public appearances of the Pope, and some parts of the square can only be seen at specific times. The hotel serves light lunch on Wednesdays and brunch on Sundays on the terrace after the Papal events in the warmer seasons, but otherwise doesn't offer lunch or dinner. Free breakfast takes place in an elegant room with offerings that include Italian meats and cheeses, breads, cereal, coffee, and juice. Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel. The hotel also offers freebies on arrival that can include welcome fruit platters and cocktails. Airport transfer services can be booked at the front desk and the hotel can provide assistance with tickets to Papal events as well as guided tours (for a fee).