Hotel Raphael – Relais Chateaux

Opened in 1963, Hotel Raphael is an upscale Relais & Chateaux property that places a particular emphasis on art -- indeed, its art collection is stunning and includes work by Picasso, De Chirico, and Miro. Even before stepping inside, though, there's a particular romance to the hotel, and the vine-covered exterior, along a cobblestone street, is exactly the picture that many visitors to Rome have when they arrive in town. Once inside, the hotel is decidedly classic, and a welcome drink sets the mood. There is an abundance of red and gold fabrics -- including its signature red velvet that's used throughout -- and everything evokes early- and mid-20th-century style, from the vintage chairs and couches to loom-woven carpets, carved hardwood, and marble accents. The art collection gives the hotel an added level of sophistication -- it's hung on the walls and presented in handsome glass cases --  but while the look throughout the hotel is sharp and mostly well executed, it is a bit stuffy. The vibe here is low-key and refined, with guests visiting the rooftop terrace in nice weather, which has excellent city views. Expect to see plenty of couples here, drawn by the romantic atmosphere, and several families as well.

Hotel Raphael is located on a cobblestone street, just down the block from the historic Piazza Navona with its statues and fountains, the most famous of which is the Fountain of the Four Rivers. Via dei Coronari -- a street so named because it was formerly filled with merchants selling “crowns” or rosaries to pilgrims passing by -- is also a one-minute walk from the hotel's front door, and today is lined with antique shops that make for a nice morning stroll. Plenty of restaurants can be found in the area, and most major sights in the city are within an easy walk as well. Famed Campo de' Fiori market is under 10 minutes away on foot, and the Trevi Fountain can be reached in 15 minutes. It's a bit longer to sights like the Spanish Steps, which will take between 15 and 20 minutes to reach on foot, and is also near the Spagna Metro station, which is the closest to the hotel. The Colosseum and Vatican City are a 25-minute walk from the hotel, and the metro won't really help travelers reach either more efficiently. Termini Station is a 20-minute taxi ride through Rome's crowded streets Both Leonardo da Vinci International Airport and Ciampino Airport may take up to 45 minutes to reach depending on traffic.

While the majority of rooms at this hotel have a completely classic look, some employ more contemporary design details. In any case, traditional touches are the dominant design motif and -- depending on guests' tastes -- will either look attractive or dated. All rooms have light wooden floors and soft yellow or antiqued walls, with plenty of the hotel's signature red and gold hues. Details like hand-woven tapestries hanging over the beds in all rooms hearken back to the neighborhood's historic roots.

There's a fairly big difference in style between the hotel's lower category rooms and upgraded rooms, like the Richard Meier designed rooms that we visited. Lower category rooms look similar to the historic, period hotels that crowd this part of the city, with heavy draped fabrics over tables and details like bronze lamps. They also have slightly dated furniture in mid-tone wood shades, padded headboards, and older dark textiles like striped bedspreads and thick curtains. The Meier-designed rooms are significantly more contemporary. Light wood-veneer furniture has slick, clean lines, and rooms include details like sliding wooden window-covers. Traditional design elements are used more sparingly in these rooms, with just a touch of red velvet in soft furnishings and tapestries over the beds.

Amenities include seasonal air-conditioning, safes, 30-inch flat-screen TVs, and well-stocked minibars. Upgraded rooms have Nespresso coffeemakers. While all rooms nominally have free Wi-Fi, the connection is tenuous at best (there is wired Internet for those who want an alternative). Rooms with balconies are also available. Bathrooms again are a mix of old-school and contemporary. Some are done in stunning white marble, while others have dark brown and blue tilework, and still others -- like the Meier-designed rooms we visited -- have sleek white-and-wood bathrooms. Some bathrooms have separate tubs and showers while others have bathtub/shower combos, or just showers. All include premium Bulgari toiletries.

The standout feature at Hotel Raphael is the lovely rooftop terrace with impressive views of the city. The terrace is used as an outdoor dining space for the hotel's vegetarian restaurant, and there’s also a wine menu for guests who want to have a drink and take in the city views. The free breakfast buffet is a winner among most guests. It does include some meat options for those unimpressed with the organic, vegetarian fare, and the selection on offer is generous. The hotel also has a fitness center with some slightly dated cardio machines and free weights. The mirror-and-green-marble space isn't the most modern we've seen, but it should suffice for a simple workout. There are a decent number of business features too, including a ballroom-size event space and a computer corner -- keep in mind that while Wi-Fi is free, it doesn't work well. The hotel also has a small library and a concierge. Small pets are allowed for a fee.