Viceroy Riviera Maya

Tucked away at
the end of a long scrub-lined road, the Viceroy Riviera Maya has wonderfully serene reception set under a tall palm-frond palapa scented
with the heady aroma of burning copal
incense. New arrivals are swiftly greeted
with cool flannels and refreshing drink; after a smooth desk-free
check-in, they are invited to take part in a brief cleansing ritual (performed by
a local Mayan shaman). They are then guided over a wooden bridge to charming
pathways that meander through dense tropical vegetation, past trickling
waterfalls, and to their private secluded villa. Deeper into the jungle grounds
-- thick with colorful flowers, tropical palms, and chirruping birdsong -- the
path opens up to a pristine pool terrace and landscaped garden, and beyond the picture-perfect
white powder sands and crystal turquoise waters of the Caribbean.

The resort is
located in the small village of Playa Xcalacoco, about a mile and half down a
turn-off from the Tulum-Cancun highway. The popular resort town of Playa del Carmen
is about seven miles away, or a 15-minute drive, while Cancun International
Airport is 45 minutes away by car. Despite the illusion of seclusion, the Viceroy
Riviera Maya is flanked on both sides by larger and less-refined hotels which
can sometimes be a source of unwelcome noise. Though guests can stroll the gorgeous
beach, there's nothing really in the way of bars or restaurants within walking
distance beyond those at hotel, so taxis would be required for guests wanting
to dine outside the resort. Those interested in visiting the ancient Mayan
ruins can, however, arrange day trips to the stunning cliff-top setting of
Tulum (about an hour away) or the iconic Chichén Itzá (two hours by car). 

Each of the
resort's 41 villas is a private dwelling comprising a reception area, lofty
thatched-roof bedroom, roomy bathroom, and a garden with large kidney-shaped plunge pool, woven Mayan hammock, and rainfall "moonshower." The decor is Maya-inspired rustic-luxe
finished in natural materials such as louvered-mahogany doors and sisal rugs, while enormous partially canopied beds are topped in fine
Egyptian linen and plush down pillows. The Mayordomo (butler) service also
provides the villa with such treats as hand-cut artisan soap and super-romantic turndown service on your last night (think rose petals, flickering lanterns, and mood-setting
incense). Details such as
the ability to choose the temperature of the plunge pool, the abundant provision of
huge fluffy towels, and Italian linen bathrobes also raise the luxury level way
beyond the norm. Its jungle-setting, however, also requires the provision of
mosquito repellent, and items left outside are in danger of being damaged (or
eaten) by resident spider monkeys. Most gardens are secluded and surrounded by jungle vegetation, though gardens of the ocean-view and
beachfront villas, while benefiting from sea views (and more sunlight), lack
the privacy of those set further into the grounds. Other gripes: Minibar items are very expensive -- even by luxury hotel standards -- and the
capsules for espresso machines aren't free of charge. 

Although the hotel
only has one swimming pool, it's more than enough for a resort that, even at full
occupancy, never feels crowded. The pool is elegantly organic in form and surrounded by landscaped terraces lined with palm trees and tropical plants, as well as a small patch of beach with daybeds -- all with views of the Caribbean sea.
Numerous wicker baskets dot the pool area stuffed with either beach towels or
sun hats -- in both his and hers styles -- while ever-attentive butlers stand
poolside with cooling face towels and drinks menus. The swimming pool water is
also maintained at a perfect 80 degrees Fahrenheit while a separate whirlpool area provides
underwater massage jets. 

The Viceroy's
main restaurant is the Coral Grill which serves an exceptionally good breakfast
menu of cooked-to-order dishes and a range of healthy options. The open-air
restaurant also serves a range of "antojitos"
(Mexican tapas) and homemade pizzas from the wood-fired throughout the day,
while evening dining includes locally fished seafood and grilled steaks. While
the quality of the food is generally excellent, meals can be expensive and no
other restaurants are within walking distance. La Marea restaurant
is open in the evenings and serves essentially the same contemporary Mexican
dinner menu but in more elegant candlelit surrounds. Culinary events also
include weekly tequila and ceviche tasting, grill classes, and Friday night
beach barbecues. The hotel also offers 24-hour room service, though the options are
limited and delivery is not particularly swift. 

While not
necessarily the most spectacular example of its kind on the Mayan Riviera, the
beach at the Viceroy is nonetheless a lovely stretch of white-powder sand
married with those stunning turquoise Caribbean waters. Entry into the sea is quite
rocky in places, though the hotel provides water shoes and there's also a privatepier that guests can use to drop into the water beyond the rocks. Beach
loungers are particularly comfy -- with palm-frond shelters providing shade --
and attentive and friendly staff are always on hand to take a drink order. 

The hotel's
serene jungle spa is housed in a large, circular palm-roofed hut with
segregated men's and women's sides, each with a whirlpool tub, stone-built
eucalyptus steam bath, and selection of showers (sensual, rainfall, and
ice water). Lockers provide robes, massage slippers, and all-natural toiletry
kits while massages and beauty therapies can be taken in a jungle setting or a
private treatment room. There's far more than the usual menu of spa services on
offer and an emphasis on traditional Mayan treatments, often involving ancient
rituals for couples (Mayan wedding ceremonies can even be arranged).Away from the main spa area, guests
can also take part in an intensive steam bath ceremony in the hotel's own Temazcal
-- an ancient Mesoamerican domed sweat lodge -- which is said to cleanse both
the body and the spirit (though it's not an experience recommended for the
claustrophobic). Yoga classes also take place each morning on the pier and
there's a well-equipped gym tucked away in the hotel's gardens.