Kriunes Hotel

The Hotel Kriunes draws laid-back, outdoorsy tourists who want to stay in a natural, lakeside environment but still be relatively close to the center of Reykjavik. Guests, many from the United Kingdom, range from young couples to active seniors. The event space also draws groups of business travelers for retreats or conferences. Built in 1998 and still owned by the same family, the Hotel Kriunes, while homey and cheery, is neither sophisticated nor glamorous. But that casualness is part of its appeal. The building, a plain yellow-and-russet-red masonry structure, is nicely situated on the shores of Lake Ellidavatn at the end of a gravel drive. The property has a sauna and hot tub on the grounds but no pool or fitness center. The dining room off the reception area, where breakfast is served, has wooden farmhouse tables covered in cabbage-rose tablecloths. Shelves, filled with books to borrow -- many of them travel guides -- are next to a suit of armor, a decorative detail more quirky than antique. A den with a fireplace faces the lake, and there's also an outdoor terrace with wooden furniture. Guests gather for hours, either by the fire or out on the terrace, warmed by coffee from the dining-room thermos, waiting and watching for the Northern Lights (the hosts provide a "Northern Lights wake-up call service). Given how small the hotel is, guests get to know one another and their hosts, who serve free homemade treats at the end of the day. The vibe is convivial and wouldn't suit loners or those seeking complete privacy.

Hotel Kriunes is located a 20-minute drive from the center of Reykjavik in a wooded area that feels much more remote. There's a bus stop within a 10-minute walk of the hotel, and tour companies will often pick up and drop off guests, but most guests will need a car to get around. Drivers should be aware, though, that roads can be icy for much of the year. Salalaug Pool, for outdoor swimming, is about a 10-minute drive from the hotel, and Viking Horses, which leads group or private horseback rides through the countryside, is 11 minutes away by car. For an anthropological look at Iceland, the Arbaejarsafm Museum is a 13-minute drive from the hotel. Kapovogur Golf Club is a 15-minute drive. Perlan, the revolving restaurant with a glass dome, is 17 minutes away by car, and Heidmork National Park is a 20-minute drive. The Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Center and Hallgrimskirkja, an exquisite church, are about a 21-minute drive toward Reykjavik's center. Reykjavik International Airport is a 45-minute drive. 

The 12 rooms at the Hotel Kriunes have colorful accent walls, wooden side tables and bed frames, and pine-knotted wardrobes. Patterned bedspreads, some accompanied by dust ruffles, give the rooms an old-fashioned look. Rooms are far from glamorous, but most guests appreciate their comfortable furnishings and amenities. All rooms have heating and air-conditioning, flat-screen TVs, tea- and coffee-making facilities, and free Wi-Fi. There are no irons or ironing boards (although the hotel offers laundry and dry-cleaning service for a fee). Rooms range in size from 194-square-feet for a double room to 538-square-feet for a lake-view suite. Most rooms have large picture windows with lake views except for Rooms 13, 14, and 15. Some of the larger rooms have hot tubs, and Suites include fireplaces and sofas. Bathrooms have colorful tile floors and wooden vanities with traditional porcelain fixtures; showers stall have curtains, not glass doors. Hairdryers and toiletries are provided. 

Features at the family-run Hotel Kriunes prove it's more of a guest house than a hotel. Breakfast, including home-baked goods and Kriunes-grown produce, is served each morning in a farmhouse-style dining room with a water view, and coffee and tea are available all day. Home-made cake and fresh fruit make an appearance at happy hour, and the hotel staff will make sandwiches or reheat take-out food and serve it in the dining room at guests' request. The hotel has a small bar, but heavy drinking is not the norm. There's an outdoor hot tub and sauna, but neither has water views. The front desk staff will offer tour assistance, but it does not operate 24 hours. There are mountain bikes to rent, and kayaks and pedal boats to borrow, and the hosts will loan a few clubs for the small on-site putting green. Parking is free as is Wi-Fi, and a computer, fax, and printer are there for guests' use. Meeting and event spaces, basically furnished, are also available. Children eight years old and younger stay free as long as they don't require additional beds. Pets are accepted upon request.