Pestana Palácio do Freixo

Palacio do Freixo has a beguiling setting overlooking the Douro River, and the hotel is impressive inside and out. An elegant Versailles-style garden surrounds the body of the hotel, with flowers and trees arranged around lawns and a fountain. The hotel's public spaces are in a restored and refurbished Portuguese Baroque palace erected in 1742 -- it was combined with a pink annex building that was once a 19th-century cereal factory to create the current incarnation of the hotel. Guests are welcomed with a glass of port in the reception area, set in an elegant high-ceilinged room decorated in rich colors of red, blue, and tan. The stately interiors showcase elements like marble and stone flooring and ceiling frescoes, while accents including gilt crown molding, grandfather clocks, carved-wood cabinets, and other antiques create an undeniably charming time-warp ambience. The Palacio attracts well-heeled tourists, mainly couples, but also business travelers who make use of the meeting rooms. Many local residents celebrate honeymoons, anniversaries, and birthdays here.

The Palacio do Freixo is situated on the Douro River in a quiet, largely industrial area next to a bar, restaurant, and jet boat river tour company. The National Printing Press Museum is also next door for anyone looking to learn more about local history. The A20 highway is a two-minute drive away, and Campanha train and metro station is a five-minute drive or 15-minute walk from the hotel. The hotel isn't ideal for visiting Porto's main attractions, but it runs a free shuttle six times a day to the Ribeira Square area, which takes around eight minutes to reach by car. Guests can also get to Ribeira by taking a taxi to Campanha station, then a train or metro to Sao Bento station. The journey, including walk times, takes about 35 minutes. Major sights in the center of town include Clerigos Tower, Infante D. Hendrique Square, Bolsa Palace, Monument Church of St. Francis, Porto Cathedral, and Dom Luis I Bridge. It's about a 30-minute metro ride from Campanha station to the Rem Koolhaas-designed Casa de Musica. Francisco Sa Carneiro Airport is a 15-minute drive from the hotel.

Those who were hoping that the hotel's Baroque look would be continued in its guest rooms will be surprised, as all rooms are done in a fairly uniform modern style. The color palette is dominated by a soft chartreuse, with camel brown, gold, and tan accents plus a few pops of red. All are carpeted, and furniture has an almost retro vibe, with linoleum and lacquer surfaces contrasting tan leather seating in most rooms. Bold contemporary canvases add a dash of edgy flair to the spaces, but on the whole the look is decidedly minimalist. Lower-category rooms range from 323 to 463 square feet (30 to 43 square meters), while suites from 646 to 915 square feet (60 to 85 square meters). Some rooms have views of the river. All include desks, safes, minibars, free Wi-Fi, and flat-screen TVs with English and satellite channels. Some suites have Nespresso coffee machines. Bathrooms are well-lighted and spacious, with large mirrors and ample space around the sinks. They include bidets and premium bath products, but not all have bathtubs. The mosaic tilework matches the main body of the rooms, and when we visited we did spot a surprising amount of dirty grout in some rooms. All rooms are nonsmoking.

Palacio do Freixo offers a wide array of features. An outdoor infinity pool (open in the warmer months) overlooks the Douro River, and is large enough for laps. Next to the pool is a large deck with lounge chairs and a poolside bar and lounge, which serves drinks and light fare. The hotel also has a small indoor pool with a deck, plus a steam room and sauna. The 24-hour fitness center contains a flat-screen TV, weight and cardio machines, and free weights. A small on-site spa offers a wide variety of massages, facials, scrubs, wraps, and hot stone treatments. The ample breakfast buffet includes a selection of scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, beans, mushrooms, cold cuts, cheeses, breads, cereal, fruit, yogurt, coffee, tea, juice, and Champagne. Unfortunately it's not included in room rates. Throughout the rest of the day, the restaurant serves innovative Portuguese and Mediterranean cuisine, with tasting and pairing menus. A second restaurant serves contemporary international fare and has a stylish cocktail lounge and outdoor patio with river view. The Palacio also has concierge service, library and business center, meeting rooms, and free parking. Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel, and free transfers to the city center are run six times per day.