Qi Palawan

The Qi (pronounced "chi"), is the only development in the area, and as such offers a level of privacy and tranquility hard to find in properties closer to El Nido town. The hour-long shuttle ride from the airport, sometimes on unpaved roads, may not appeal to everyone, but the tradeoff is an empty beach, the most absolute silence at night, and virtually private island-hopping tours. This was an almost untouched part of the island before the resort opened, and owners Bettina and Ismael have gone to great lengths to leave the smallest carbon footprint possible. Everything here is built with sustainable and local materials, including bamboo (instead of hardwood, which takes longer to grow), cogon, and a minimum amount of concrete. The outcome is a beautiful resort that perfectly blends with the surrounding grounds. Other sustainable efforts include eco-friendly toiletries in all rooms, and the use of solar power, local produce, and natural fertilizers and insect repellents. 

The hotel’s seven cottages are built around the resort’s small but lovely pool. Next to them is the restaurant, housed in a tall open pavilion with dark wood floors, bamboo walls, and a thatched roof. The only other main structure is the striking pavilion housing the yoga studio and the spa, which is tucked away amid lush tropical forests. The vibe at the Qi is relaxed and friendly, and most guests here are couples looking for some peace and quiet.

The hotel is located on a long sandy beach in a remote area in the northeastern part of mainland Palawan. There are no towns or villages within walking distance, and around it there is only thick forest and the Sulu Sea. The road from El Nido town is currently being built, and a few stretches are still unpaved, which can make the drive up here a little uncomfortable. However, this helps limit the number of tourists venturing this far out. In fact, the beaches around the hotel are virtually empty, and the island-hopping tours feel private and exclusive, with fewer divers, swimmers and boats. This part of the island is also known for its good kitesurfing, especially during Amihan (the trade winds season), and there are wonderful snorkeling spots just a short boat ride away. Diving, island-hopping, and cultural trips can be arranged through the hotel. El Nido town, home to a wide array of restaurants, bars and shops, is an hour-drive away. The hotel offers free roundtrip shuttle service to the airport. 

Each of the hotel’s seven rooms is housed in a stand-alone hut with bamboo walls and thatched roofs that keep the space fresh and cool. Large sliding doors open onto a terrace furnished with wicker chairs and a table, and offering ocean and pool views. Interiors are simple but charming, with rustic wooden furniture, dark wood floors, and white linens. All rooms come with flat-screen TVs, free Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, ceiling fans, pitchers with purified water, and safes, but no mini-fridges. Bathrooms are a highlight here, with a separate toilet room, and a spacious outdoor sink and shower area with a rain showerhead and an array of eco-friendly toiletries. 

Family Villas are duplex units with a spacious master bedroom on the top floor, and a living and dining area on the lower level. These units have a particularly smart design, with three twin beds stowed away under the floorboards, allowing for a maximum capacity of five guests. One Family Villa and one standard Cottage are wheelchair-accessible, a rarity in the region.

The beach is shallow and therefore not great for swimming, but the hotel offers an array of free non-motorized sports, including sea kayaking and snorkeling gear, and several padded loungers. Sandflies are a common complaint in this part of Palawan, but the hotel provides effective natural repellent in all rooms, and fumigates the sand with natural products regularly. Motorized water sports are also available on-site for a fee, and kitesurfing is particularly popular during the trade winds season (generally between October and May). The pool is small but lovely and quiet, with a small grass area around it and ocean views. One of the owners is a yoga enthusiast, and offers free guided yoga classes every morning in a striking open pavilion. There are also yoga DVDs for guests to use at their own pace throughout the day. The spa has offers traditional Filipino and Swedish massages, as well as herbal and relaxation baths. 

Free breakfast is served daily at the restaurant, which also serves a healthy Spanish-inspired menu for lunch and dinner. The owners try to source most of their products locally, and some of the herbs and vegetables come from the hotel’s own garden. The hotel has free Wi-Fi throughout, and offers free roundtrip airport transfers to all guests. Island-hopping tours, inland excursions, and diving trips are available for a fee.