Hotel Petit Cala Fornells

A steep driveway lined with giant cacti and colorful flowers sweeps up to a tidy garden composed of natural rock flower beds, a three-tiered fountain decorated with glazed ceramic shards, and the entrance to Hotel Petit Cala Fornells. Numerous pine trees fill the air with their scent, plump koi carp flit around fish ponds, balustraded staircases connect a series of sun terraces and secluded shady corners, and the seascape provides a constant and breathtaking backdrop. As well as the lush tiered gardens, the complex comprises two buildings -- the main block with most rooms, dining, and facilities, and a second housing all the hotel's Grand Suites. While built in the style of a grand Mediterranean villa, complete with green shuttered windows and terra-cotta tile roof, the property was actually once part of the neighboring Hotel Cala Fornells (part of it still overlooks their pool). A third generation of the same Majorcan family runs the hotel, and interiors are characterized by their growing collection of artworks and curios. Hallways and public areas are brimming with hand-blown glass sconces and chandeliers, traditional painted tiles, and wrought-iron sculptures (mostly sea- and maritime-themed). The result will be elegantly old-fashioned and romantically nostalgic to some tastes, and dowdy, dated, and unfashionable to others. For this reason the hotel tends to attract more senior vacationing couples, though on our visit there were some children splashing around the kids' pool. Many guests are German, and the signage and menus accommodate for that; meals are also held at times more normal for Germany rather than Spain. Younger guests may also appreciate the hotel's mini-menagerie of canaries and goats, as well as the resident labrador Maggie.

The hotel is perched on a quiet hilltop west of the popular tourist resort town of Pegueras, in the southwest of Majorca. It overlooking a pretty piece of coastline that includes the lovely Fornells Cove, a particularly picturesque spot with crystal clear waters and small beach just a few minutes' walk downhill (though it can get crowded). There's little else in the immediate area in the way of dining, and there's certainly no nightlife immediately nearby, though there are numerous bars and restaurants in Pegueras, about a 10-minute drive away. Just a few minutes' stroll uphill is the start of a network of hiking trails through pine-forested mountains. Under 10 minutes by car is the upmarket Camp De Mar beach resort. For those wanting to tread the charming cobbled streets of Palma's Old Town, it's a half-hour drive; Palma de Mallorca Airport is around the same distance.

There are 42 suites in all here, 32 Junior Suites occupying the main building and 10 Grand Suites set in a separate block, formerly a private residence. While no two are identical, Junior suites are all traditionally Mediterranean in style with wrought-iron furnishings, travertine stone and marble floors, and patterned fabrics; many also include neoclassical columns, often awkwardly positioned in the middle of the room. Each of the Grand Suites has its own character and layout, all with high ceilings, four-poster beds, and separate sitting rooms. All suites open to furnished terraces or balconies, though sea views are only guaranteed from Junior Suites -- best views are from the fourth floor. Amenities include 32-inch flat-screen TVs (52-inch in Grand Suites), minibars (wine and beer, though no spirits), and free Wi-Fi (fast enough for video streaming). Bathrooms are all clad in marble with either shower/tub combos or separate tubs and walk-in showers, twin basins, heated towel rails, and hotel-brand toiletries; all also add bathrobes and slippers, while some have windows into the sleeping area. Room service of drinks and light meals is available when the bar is open. Guest should note Grand Suites are only accessible by stairs.

There are three on-site restaurants, an impressive number for a relatively small hotel. Most meals take place in the flamboyant-yet-traditional surrounds of the Bay View Restaurant, which has a large outdoor terrace offering lovely sea views. Buffet breakfast here is always included in rate, and features a la carte egg dishes and juice squeezed from local oranges. Dinner, available on the half-board plan, has both buffet and table service, and may be accompanied by live piano music. The Na Sardana Restaurant is open for an a la carte dinner (guests receive discount) with bay and mountain views from a glass-partitioned room overlooking a terrace. The La Calita Restaurant is set next to the pool with cove views, a lunchtime menu, and a decent cocktail list. A weekly barbecue is held over the summer, and there's a small tea room with log stove for cooler months. The hotel's main pool is long and deep, with two tiers and fine sea views. There are two other outdoor pools, including a shady terrace pool and a splash pool for kids (though that's where child-friendly facilities end). The grounds provide an impressive number of semi-secluded terraces with comfy loungers where couples can relax in relative privacy. A heated indoor pool can also be found in the glass-sided spa area, which also offers a sauna, a whirlpool tub, and a small gym. There's a very old-fashioned TV room and adjoining bar that puts on regular wine tasting sessions.