Los Pilares Hotel

On a quaint cobblestone corner in a pretty, residential neighborhood, Los Pilares’ sunny yellow colonial facade and lantern lighting paint a timeless picture. Past its hand-carved timber doors and the formal foyer, the property -- a former tannery -- opens up to an enchanting hacienda-style interior that feels borrowed from a children's picture book. Old World style abounds: Exposed timber-beam ceilings with rustic, wrought-iron chandeliers soar over terra-cotta floors, while wide-arched walkways with square columns surround a sunlit courtyard. Bistro tables are scattered about the space, and climbing vines and terra-cotta-potted palms add a lush, jungle-green contrast. To one side, a circular wrought-iron bar serves up wine in long-stemmed glasses. Elegant lounge settings offer more relaxed seating, and big bouquets of flowering lilies fill the walkways leading to rooms. Up an effortless flight of stone stairs, a sprawling garden terrace oasis provides picturesque glimpses of Santo Domingo and makes for an enchanting spot to enjoy meals. With just 15 rooms, the hotel provides a calm atmosphere that's high-end boutique without being remotely stuffy. Sunlight spills into common areas and a number of rooms, and the warm hospitality of husband-and-wife hosts, Lorenzo and Pilar, are the perfect complement. 

Los Pilares is located in a quiet residential pocket (in the Jalatlaco neighborhood) where tanneries used to thrive. It’s not quite as central as other Oaxacan hotels, but nevertheless sites can be reached on longer walks or short drives. Popular, walkable city highlights include the famed Santo Domingo Church and the Museum of Contemporary Art -- both a 14-minute walk. Also, the Oaxacan House of Culture  is a 12-minute walk away. But other sights are more easily reached by car: The Zocalo is a 13-minute drive (or a 20-minute stroll) and Benito Juarez Markets is a 15-minute drive (or 23 minutes on foot). Taxis can be arranged by the hotel -- and they’re dirt cheap. Oaxaca International Airport is a 25-minute drive from the hotel.

The Old World aesthetic established in common areas flows right into rooms -- where a neutral backdrop of beige and sand hues is embellished with hand-painted walls and wrought-iron candelabra lighting. Dark antique-style armoires, headboards, and dining settings for two, all with their own hand-carved details, add to the look. Spacious layouts are amplified with lovely high ceilings, and unlike a lot of other Oaxacan hotels, rooms here enjoy ample natural light. All rooms include mini-fridges, safes, free Wi-Fi, and flat-screen TVs, although the latter are quite small. Tea and coffee facilities are notably missing, too. Bathrooms feature dark timber-framed mirrors and candelabras matching the bedrooms -- along with mosaic vanities and walk-in showers. Deluxe Rooms step up the perks with huge whirlpool tubs. Robes, hairdryers, and free individual toiletries are included. Most windows overlook the internal common areas, though curtains add some privacy. Street-side rooms can encounter some noise (hard to avoid in Oaxaca), so light sleepers should book accordingly.  

Los Pilares Hotel has a remarkable amount of features for a small-scale historic hotel, but some of those are equally small-scale. On-site drinking and dining are a highlight: The lobby bar occupies a gorgeous atrium courtyard, along with plenty of dining tables guests may use at their leisure. Upstairs, the huge open-air terrace houses the Miel & Canela restaurant where al la carte breakfast and all day snacks are served. (The delicious breakfast receives high praise.) Guests can observe their morning tortillas being made right there in the outdoor kitchen, and freshly squeezed, seasonal juices are always on offer. (We enjoyed the mandarin one.) Afternoon/ evening fare includes tapas, baguettes, salads, and desserts. The property's pool may be disappointing to those looking for a proper spot to swim. Nestled in the terrace corner, it's tiny -- just a little bigger than its neighboring whirlpool -- so laps are out of the question. That said, it can offer refreshing plunges and has two deck chairs for a little sunbathing spot. The terrace, on the other hand, can accommodate a great deal more people -- up to 120. It's ideal for events, and the hotel caters to all kinds, from meetings to weddings to bachelorette parties. While there's no spa on the premises, a range of beauty services (through outside vendors) can be booked through reception including makeup, hairstyling, mani/pedis, and massage. The concierge service can also arrange airport transfers (for a fee), and assists guests with customizing tours. Free Wi-Fi is provided in all areas of the hotel.