Hotel La Casona De Tita

Perched next to a calm and picturesque cobblestone street, shared with other 19th century dwellings dressed in Mexican brights, Casona De Tita’s chipotle-red facade seems more like a private residence with its closed front doors and security buzzer entry (swiftly opened by warm reception staff upon pressing). Just inside, hefty stone pavers; a soaring exposed wood ceiling; a modern abstract artwork; and interesting Mexican artifacts cultivate a rustic colonial-meets-contemporary vibe. (All artworks and sculptures are available for sale.) Just past the foyer, the reception area feels like a professorial office -- with its desk seating, wall of books, and gallery-like display of Oaxacan artifacts. However, it’s the large alfresco courtyard that dominates the property -- around which the rooms, the restaurant, and reception are all set. A series of blond, linear shipping-like pallets form a geometric centerpiece that also doubles as doors to an underground office. Terra-cotta pots of all sizes add agaves, ferns, palms, and colorful flora into the scene. On one side, blond tables and chairs spill outside of the restaurant where guests can partake in hearty open-air breakfasts while observing the lovely courtyard. With just six rooms on offer, there’s a vibe of exclusivity -- it feels more like being a guest in someone’s fabulous private home, versus staying in a hotel. That's no coincidence, given the property is indeed a restored 19th century residence. The decor makes a sophisticated departure from the more cliché Mexican brights and handicrafts seen in many other hotels, and the patronage comprises predominantly mature, tranquility-seeking couples. 

Set in a peaceful corner of town in the downtown historic district, La Casona de Tita is about a 22-minute drive from Oaxaca International Airport, and just six minutes walk from Santo Domingo Church -- where restaurants, bars, spontaneous street festivals, and artisan street vendors create a lively, colorful hub of activity. The Museum of Contemporary Art is nine minutes away on foot, and the Zocalo and the Guelaguetza are both 12 minutes. (The latter is worth the up-stairs hike for its amazing city views.) Popular markets are a little farther on foot and include, Benito Juarez Markets (15 minutes), indoor food mecca, 20 de Noviembre (16 minutes), and the Artisans Market -- Mercado de Artesanias -- (20 minutes). 

Each of the six guest rooms offers a variation of handsome decor in neutral, earthy tones. All feature huge open plan layouts with soaring ceilings and exposed timber beams over dark terra-cotta tiles and an elegant curation of furniture. Solid antique-style timber pieces, like armoires and giant chests, complement brass, wrought-iron, or wood headboards. Contemporary artwork, on white walls, give each room its own creative flavor. Beds (in double and king configurations) are comfortable and dressed in subdued neutrals that emphasis texture over color. Some rooms are darker than others, but a couple feature circular skylights for extra illumination (with an electric block out feature). Door-sized windows with timber-slatted screens let in lots of light, simultaneously framing picturesque courtyard views and maintaining privacy. Bathrooms exude a sleek designer feel -- blending neutral stone square tiles with timber, and frameless glass walk-in showers. A selection of free, colorful, locally made toiletries are included. Rooms are equipped with flat-screen TVs, air conditioning, telephones, safes, and free bottled water. They don’t offer coffee- and tea-making facilities, but eager-to-please staff are quick to provide fresh espresso coffee on emerging from rooms in the morning.

On-site features are indeed limited -- there's no pool or full restaurant here -- but that suits the small-scale nature of this property. That said, the hotel does provide an excellent daily breakfast guests rave about. Inspired by Oaxacan culinary tradition, it includes housemade jams, fresh daily baked bread, excellent espresso coffee, fresh juices, and authentic Mexican dishes. Bar service is available 24 hours, and Mexican wine and mezcal tastings can be arranged. Free Wi-Fi is provided as well.