Le Donjon – Domaine Saint Clair

Outdoors, between the patches of riotous vegetation, sits an upright baby grand piano near a cluster of deep-cushioned armchairs. This is the perfect emblem of the pervading aesthetic, which mixes the slightly formal with the ramshackle. The stone, castle-like, ivy-covered structure is set on a hillside overlooking the sea, surrounded by stone pines. Popular with couples, the hotel is also often booked by wedding parties, at which time the grounds and facilities might be off-limits to other guests.

The property enjoys an elevated position on the outer edge of the charming seaside town of Etretat, which is in itself quite small, and has appeared in numerous tableaux by that giant of French painting, Claude Monet. The hotel is a six-minute walk from the town center, with its quaint Norman houses and small shops and restaurants. Walking into town is easy, if a bit hilly. The Havre Airport is the closest one to the town, and is about a half-hour's drive. There are also private shuttles from the nearby train stations of Le Havre and Breaute.

Floor-to-ceiling draped taffeta curtains and equally decorative canopy beds characterize the opulent rooms here, which combine deep jewel tones and the occasional beaded lamp, with dark wood cabinets and brilliantly painted versions of country furniture. All have flat-screen TVs,  hairdryers,  safes, and coffeemakers. A couple of the rooms have built-in saunas, and some of the white-tiled bathrooms have full tubs.

The restaurant reviews range from good to mixed; most can agree that the food is on the expensive side, the wine list especially so. The bucolic outdoor pool is heated, and surrounded by a good number of cushioned lounge chairs. There is also a spa, where guests can book massage treatments.