Riad Dar Oulhoum

Originally the home of a high-ranking vizier from the mid-1800s, the building became a Spanish bank, and then a British government house before undergoing renovation in 2000 as a hotel. From the narrow street, unassuming doors open into a brick-lined passage where the first glimpse of local crafts and antique furniture hint at the owner's collection within. And at the heart of the riad, the beautiful garden courtyard combines sophisticated modern design with carefully preserved traditional interiors.

Hidden in the historic medina, Riad Dar Oulhoum is in the heart of Marrakech's 11th-century UNESCO world heritage site, surrounded by narrow streets packed with vendors selling traditional crafts. The nearest parking is a 10-minute walk from the hotel, and the Royal Palace, Bahia Palace, Jamaa el Fna, and Dar Si Said Museum are within a 20- to 25-minute walk. Marrakech Menara International Airport is a 15-minute drive, once outside the maze-like pedestrian streets. 

There are only four rooms at Riad Dar Oulhoum, and the owners gave each one a personal touch, with furnishings collected from all over North Africa, India, and the tropical islands of Bali. Rooms are on the small side with little space to spread out, but like in all riads, they open to the central courtyard for ample (if only semi-private) space to lounge. Different themes guide the choice of decor, with the Bali and Indi Rooms showcasing far-flung ornamentation. The Bali room has a fireplace, and its hand-tiled bathroom has an open walk-in shower under a skylight. The Indi Room's palatial ceiling has hanging lamps to match, and a bathroom with a custom soaking tub and a rainfall showerhead. The Fassi Room includes rich, hand-carved wood furniture from Fez, while the  Marrakchi Suite has all the comfort of a luxury room with elegant Middle Eastern rugs and tapestries. Wi-Fi is free in all of the rooms.

Apart from the typical in-house information and tour guidance offered by most riads, the staff here will also head out into the medina with guests and take them on a tour -- even haggling and bartering on their behalf with vendors. The riad sends someone to the parking lot when guests arrive, bringing a cart to carry luggage on the pedestrian-only streets on the not-so-short walk to the hotel too. Once there, the courtyard lacks the plunge pool found in most riads, but its lounge and central fountain make for an excellent place to recoup after a trek through the city. The rooftop terrace is even better, and has a spiral staircase up to a higher lounge area (though the view over the city includes derelict adjoining rooftops). A traditional breakfast is free, and the delicious dinners center on chicken tagines simmered in fennel and candied olives. Lunches and dinners must be arranged in advance, as the hotel buys fresh ingredients at the market every morning depending on what guests order.