El Fenn

Tucked away down a side street, standing out from its clay brick
surrounds, the arched entrance of El Fenn is marked only by a small unassuming brass
sign. Its heavy black wooden door however opens up into a world that is
anything but modest -- a labyrinthine complex of beautifully presented
courtyards adorned with orange trees, superb original Moroccan tiling, carved
cedar wood, and numerous furnishings and objet d'art scavenged from local flea
markets. Vanessa Branson -- sibling of
Richard -- bought the ruined riad in 2002 and after two years of painstaking
restoration opened with just six rooms. With the purchase of two joining
townhouses and a 2014 total renovation, the property reopened as this
enchanting and exclusive hotel that has attracted a long list of stars from
Gwyneth Paltrow to Gwen Stefani -- Annie Lennox is also a regular guest. The
main focus, however, has always been the hotel's seriously impressive art
collection that can be seen on display in various parts of the property.
There's also plenty of nooks and secluded spots throughout as well as a vast
roof terrace featuring magical views over the medina at night -- just be
careful not to trip over one of the family of the hotel's resident tortoises. The atmosphere is romantic, refined, and true to a Moroccan aesthetic. 

The hotel is situated
in Marrakech's iconic medina quarter -- or old city -- next to the Palace Gate
landmark and five minutes' walk from the famous Djemaa el-Fna square and
marketplace. This 11th-century UNESCO recognized district is abuzz with bustling
souks, cafes, and even the occasional snake-charmer. As is the case with many such hotels,
there is no direct car access to El Fenn, but parking and taxi ranks are a few
minutes away on foot. Marrakech Menara International Airport is about 15 minutes'
drive away. 

There are 22
rooms in the main building and an additional five in the smaller riad -- Little
Sister -- a few minutes walk away, plus a private riad with four double bedrooms. Most of the rooms in the main building are
spacious open-plan suites individually decorated with a gorgeous blend of vibrantly colored
_tadelakt _(Morrocan limestone
plaster), locally sourced furnishings, and vintage 20th-century pieces. Many
have lofty 17-foot ceiling and others real-wood fireplaces and original
artworks, while all include luxurious bathtubs and six-foot-wide beds with
Egyptian cotton sheets. Scented candles and the deliberate absence of TVs
and telephone make for particularly relaxing accommodation -- aided too by extra-thick walls that soundproof from the bustle outside. The best suite in
the house boasts apartment-like space, hand-sewn camel leather flooring, and a private rooftop plunge pool. Wi-Fi is free. 

Rare for
Marrakech, the hotel has three heated pools, two lined in Carrara marble, and a
rooftop plunge pool surrounded by a huge roof terrace with wonderful views over
the city. The roof is even accessible via an elevator and also has a lovely
cafe and restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and -- weather permitting -- dinner
under the stars. The main restaurant, however, is a wonderfully moody candlelit
place with a chic, arty vibe serving some of the area's finest dining. There are also a traditional hammam steam bath and massage room where fireside treatments
are available with all-natural products. Peaceful courtyards provide relaxing spaces to put your feet up. Wi-Fi throughout is free.