The Xara Palace Relais & Chateaux

The Xara Palace is certainly a hotel that invites superlatives. Carved from sandstone, its elegant facade overlooks a charming, shaded square complete with ancient arches and balustrade balconies. Stepping inside, an unexpectedly bright and high-ceilinged hallway is lined with traditional patterned rugs, frilly marble-topped tables, and genuine antique furnishings, setting an aptly distinguished tone from the start. Built in the 17th century as a palazzo home for the noble Moscati Parisio family, the hotel opened in 1999 as the only boutique property in Mdina. An understated reception area, hushed atmosphere, and sparing use of hotel trappings also adds to the feeling of a genuine aristocratic residence that doesn't tip into showy opulence. While there's nothing in the way of gardens or grounds, the hotel is set around a beautiful central courtyard -- where the bar is located -- and alfresco terraces are built on top of the centuries-old bastions, provide stunning views over the surrounding countryside. Service is highly personalized with professional staff greeting guests by name. An upscale hotel charging high-end rates, the more well-heeled traveler counts among the clientele, and the hotel is also no stranger to celebrity, having hosted the likes of Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, Jennifer Anniston, and Bruce Willis.

The hotel is tucked away behind the ancient bastions in the fortified medieval city of Mdina -- Malta’s first capital -- and is positioned as an elevated plateau in the center of the island. It's one of just a few tourist accommodations set within the city walls, putting all the main historic attractions -- such as the St. Paul's Cathedral, Palazzo Falson, and Carmelite Priory -- a short stroll away. There's also a handful of restaurants and cafes among the surrounding cobbled streets and the main gates are a few minutes' walk away. Cars are generally not allowed here, but cabs are permitted in to pick up and drop off guests. Malta International Airport is a 20-minute drive away and the island's present capital, Valletta, is around 25 minutes. 

Each of the 17 rooms and suites are individually styled, and while no two are identical they mostly all lean towards a traditional and even homey blend of patterned rugs, antique pieces, high-end Parisian fabrics, and comfy furnishings. Although comfortable and clean -- as well as being spacious with high ceilings -- the finish doesn't always look particularly luxurious and it's even a touch shabby in spots. Lower-level rooms look out onto a narrow medieval alley so can be gloomy by day. However, many higher-floor rooms feature gorgeous panoramic views over the island. Some Deluxe Suites also open to terraces with whirlpool tubs and stunning vistas. Duplex Rooms have split level areas and overlook the inner courtyard. Standard amenities include 32-inch flat-screen TVs, iPod docks, and coffee- and tea-making facilities. In-room Wi-Fi is free and runs at a decent speed. Marble bathrooms come with shower/tub combos, wall-mounted hairdryers, and quality toiletries. While some bathrooms are tiny, others feature windows overlooking the countryside.

In true boutique hotel style, there's very little in the way of facilities at Xara Palace. It does have excellent dining in the form of two on-site eateries. Considered one of Malta's finest restaurants, the de Mondion also has a winning alfresco terrace atop the walls overlooking the island. The menu is pricey, but excellent quality and there's an extensive wine list. More relaxed dining can be found at the Trattoria AD 1530, which focuses on Italian cooking and gourmet burgers served at tables that spill out onto the charming piazza. For breakfast, guests can choose from a cold buffet of juice, fresh fruit, pastries, breads, cheeses, ham, smoked salmon, and soft-boiled eggs. Made-to-order hot items are also available and breakfast costs extra. There's also an inner courtyard that becomes a cocktail bar in the evening. While the only on-site health facilities are a tiny gym and sauna, a shuttle is provided in the summer to an outdoor swimming pool at a hotel-owned villa on the outskirts of Rabat (around five minutes' drive). Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel.