Casa Ellul

There's something more than a little alluring about the brooding charcoal-gray entrance to Casa Ellul, adorned with intricate black ironwork and elegant carved stone. Inside, it soon becomes clear this is a boutique hotel with as much character as it has chic furnishings set against a backdrop of various decorative and architectural styles. Built sometime around the 1830s, the townhouse has been in the Ellul family for generations, and was only opened as a hotel by brothers Matthew and Andrew Ellul in 2014. Early Victorian features, such as molded coving and neoclassical touches, plus Maltese accents in the form of geometric tiling were meticulously restored, while the reception was created as retro and arty, with vintage furniture and bold portraiture. A charming interior courtyard is dominated by a classical statue reproduction depicting Heracles, son of Zeus -- curiously part of the original building -- across from a cozy log fireplace that's lit on chilly nights. The property is certainly more vertical than horizontal, with a marble staircase and single elevator connecting the four floors; most of the eight suites reside in the original building, though a few, including the penthouse, are part of a modern extension. Most of the clientele are couples who appreciate the high-end design and quiet setting.

The hotel is set on a particularly narrow and charming Old Theatre Street lined with elegant sandstone buildings a couple of blocks from the historic center of Valletta. As well as being right next to the dramatic dome of the Madonna tal-Karmnu church, the gorgeous Co-Cathedral of St. John (home to a stunning Caravaggio painting), the Palace of the Grand Master, and the National Museum of Archaeology, are all within a five-minute walk. There are also plenty of restaurants and cafes a short stroll away, and the ferry terminal to Sliema is under 10 minutes on foot. Malta International Airport is a 15-minute drive away, while the historic cities of Rabat and Mdina are about 20 minutes.

While all described as suites, the eight guest rooms vary from open-plan spaces to split-level duplexes. Each is individually styled and furnished with, for example, a classical combination of Parisian antiques, an upright piano, and roll-top tub in one, or an industrial-chic design consisting of minimalist furniture and exposed concrete in another. Spaces are beautifully designed with some opening to small balconies with street or inner courtyard views, while two suites extend to furnished terraces with whirlpool tubs overlooking the Valletta rooftops. Amenities are all high-end, with 32-inch flat-screen TVs, AirPlay music systems, and well-stocked minibars plus coffee- and tea-making facilities that include Illy espresso machines. A strong Wi-Fi signal extends to all rooms and is free of charge. Bathrooms are as varied as the guest rooms, from traditional marble-clad to super-modern wet rooms separated from the sleeping area with a wall of orange plexiglass; all include robes, proper hairdryers, and quality (though not luxury) toiletries. Note that Suites Three and Five are only accessible via stairs.

As with most comparable boutique hotels, there's little on offer in the way of facilities beyond the guest rooms. Breakfast is served in a small and stylish dining room with a choice of continental or full English, including items such as poached eggs, smoked salmon, and fresh orange juice. Breakfast is not included as standard and is fairly pricey. There's also a small bar and guests can sit in front of an open fire with a drink in cooler months. While there's no restaurant, snacks and light meals can be ordered to the room. Some travelers may be disappointed that there are no gym or spa facilities either.