Thulhagiri Island Resort

The arrival process here is a bit unceremonious and disorganized compared to other resorts. The kiosk at the airport is shared with a few resorts, so gathering for the boat ride could take extra time and patience -- guests might be told to wait, and then wait some more. Once on the boat, everyone will be given a bottle of water for the ride and will be required to wear life vests. After arriving to the island, a staff member will hand out cool towels and point toward the rustic but comfortable lounge. The check-in process can be painfully slow, but at least someone will deliver a welcome punch. Finally someone will come around to each group to fill out a card and collect passports. It's pretty clear from the get-go that service is not a high point at Thulhagiri, but after a few days of seeing the same servers -- especially since guests will be dining at the same table for all three meals the entire trip -- the staff members who work and live on the island may start to warm up to individuals who put forth an effort. Rates here are often more affordable than at neighboring resorts, which probably accounts for the lower level of service. 

The main area includes the lounge (this is the only place that connects to Wi-Fi, which costs a fee), the bar, stage, and dining room area where buffet meals are served. Furnishings are outdated and well worn, but at night, candles on tables help create some ambience. There is a small outdoor pool attached to a wooden deck, and a water sports and dive center. One jetty leads towards the water bungalows, and on the other side of the island is the main beach area and bar with white plastic beach chairs. During the day guests are usually found drinking beer at the beach bar, snorkeling, scuba diving or just napping in the lounge chairs near their rooms. The beach does not go all the way around the island due to erosion, but the sandy areas do not disappoint. 

There is a diverse mix of guests from Europe (mostly German and English) and Asia -- however, most people keep to themselves despite the fact that they will be seeing a lot of each other on this small island.

Thulhagiri Island Resort is located in the North Malé Atoll, part of the Kaafu Atoll -- a section of islands close to the airport where a number of key resorts are located. Because of this, and because of its central positioning, boats and aircrafts might be heard in the distance. The Maldives is a distinct nation in the Indian Ocean consisting of 26 Atolls and over 1,190 islands. Each resort (there are over 100 of them) is situated on an individual private island with access to incredible marine life (there is plenty of diving and snorkeling to be had on or near the property.) 

After passing through customs at Malé International Airport, guests will walk to a numbered kiosk where -- after everyone is congregated -- they will be led to a speedboat toward the property (guests should plan to carry their own luggage). Depending on the wind and weather, this ride can be choppy, but the journey only takes about 25 minutes. Each guest will pay a transfer fee (about $100), which may feel steep in price considering how short the ride actually is. Guests are told to wear life vests and will be given bottle water on the way over. 

Though the state religion of the Maldives is Sunni Islam, private islands like these are allowed to serve alcohol.

This island resort has 55 units total: 34 that are Water Bungalows and 21 that are Beach Bungalows.

Water Bungalows are almost entirely wooden with palm thatched roofs, and are slightly more upscale and more expensive than the Beach Bungalows. These units sit on stilts along a jetty over the lagoon with direct ladder access to the house reef. King beds have canopy-style beds and mosquito netting. There are flat-screen TVs, two cushioned chairs, beach towels, bathrobes, and bathrooms with dual sinks, separate tubs, and showers with rain showerheads. Mini-fridges are empty and there are no minibar items for sale. There are coffee-making facilities and free tea, but free bottled water is not offered (it can be purchased from the lounge). The deck has new cushioned lounge chairs, added after our visit, which are are more modern than everywhere else on the resort, and a large umbrella for shade. 

Beach Bungalows are located on the island surrounded by sandy paths, with thatched roofs, bamboo furnishings, and king beds without canopies. These feel more rustic, though they also have flat-screen TVs. The bathrooms, renovated after our visit, include modern basin sinks, freestanding soaking tubs, and outdoor showers. Bathrobes and beach towels are still included. The rest of the amenities are the same as above. Outside the front door is a small porch with the new cushioned loungers and a line for drying clothes. In the sand are white plastic sun loungers with trees for shade. Some villas are closer to the beach than others (request a villa on the west side of the island to be closer to the best stretch of beach and the beach bar). 

This island is seeing areas of erosion (common in the Maldives) and it does not have a continuous beach around the perimeter as many other islands do. Wide areas of sand, particularly the large beach on the west side with the beach bar, are a highlight, though. This is the place where most choose to spend the day and there is tons of space to spread out. There are a few dozen plastic white lounge chairs here, along with a few tables and chairs, which seem to be enough to go around.

The house reef is for swimming and snorkeling and there are roped off areas that signal the safest points of entry. Common sightings include colorful fish, nurse and reef sharks, mantra rays, and turtles. Other water sport activities are offered (for a fee), which -- like the dive center -- are managed by a company independent from the resort. Guests can rent kayaks, stand-up paddlboards, wind-surfing gear, and catamarans. The dive center is high quality with a friendly staff teaching certifications for all levels (languages: German, English, Japanese, and Chinese). There are many dive locations nearby.

Other activities include a small spa for basic treatments, as well as an indoor fitness center, table tennis, volleyball, darts and badminton. Late check-outs will incur a fee, even if the resort is not at full capacity. 

Wi-Fi has a fee and is only available in the lounge and bar. Even then, it is not reliable.

The main restaurant and lounge is located near the arrival jetty and is the hub for all buffet meals. Guests are assigned to the same table for all three meals for the entire stay. The chef is Austrian, so there will be Austrian dishes in regular rotation, like Wiener Schnitzel. Curries are also common, as well as pastas and chicken dishes, but there is little in the way of seafood. All-inclusive, full-board, and half-board packages are available (espresso drinks are not included). There are set meal times; during our stay breakfast was 7:30 to 10 a.m., lunch was 12:30 to 2 p.m., and dinner was 7:30 to 9 p.m. (candles are lit for a touch of romance). 

There are two bars on the premise for imbibing alcohol. During the day, most tend to use the Beach Bar along the western part of the island (the biggest section of beach). Drinks are served here from around 10 a.m. until around 6:30 p.m., right after sunset. The Sand Bar is in the main building where the buffet is held, and offers wine, beer, cocktails, and mocktails until midnight. There is a nightly happy hour with discounted drinks between 6 and 8 p.m. After dinner, guests can drink here until midnight, and there is a stage for entertainment (disco music or the occasional live band, usually provided by members of staff who live on the island). It's safe to say that the resort stays pretty quiet in the evenings, though, which is true for most resorts in the Maldives.