Luckyhiya Hotel

Despite this being a bare-bones hotel, guests can phone Lucky Hiya in advance and arrange airport pick-up from a member of staff, who will hold up a sign (guests are told to meet at a numbered kiosk). After riding the public ferry to Malé, the staff member — depending on how much luggage there is — will either hail a taxi or lead the way by foot. The entrance is tucked into a narrow alley in a residential area where young locals tend to hang out listening to music and playing card games. Throw in the call to prayer, which can be heard five times a day from nearby mosques, the moped-filled streets, and prohibition of alcohol (Malé is dry, by law), and guests can experience an authentic Maldivian lifestyle rarely seen by tourists who head straight to resort-land. Inside, the reception area is small room with a few sofas, and service from the staff here may be indifferent. Guests should receive a welcome drink while filling in the paperwork. Many bookings are made online and some reservations include breakfast -- it is worth double-checking the breakfast situation when getting the key. The dining area sits just beyond with a handful of tables, and a door leads to the small kitchen that offers fresh juices and a menu of hearty meals. The owner, Mr. Ibrahim, is often around to keep an eye on things. In late 2014 he and a small team were busy constructing a new rooftop lounge with city views, which will eventually have a hot tub and serve Asian small plates. This new addition may incentivize guests to spend more time here (and save money in the process). As it stands now, though, most guests visit briefly to either check out the city or catch some winks before a flight home. 

Malé is the capital city and the nation's economic center, and is home to government buildings, mosques, offices, and shopping. Popular sights include the Friday Mosque, which dates back to the 16th century, the Islamic Center, the former President’s Palace, the fish market, produce market, and waterfront, where fishing boats come in and out. Since very few travelers visit — most head straight to the resorts — Malé remains an interesting experience for adventurous types. No more than a day or two is needed here unless off-site excursions are planned. Guests will arrive to Malé (an island city) by boat from the airport. Lucky Hiya is within walking distance of the the ferry terminal a few blocks away. Staff will offer to assist with luggage for a small fee or tip. Boats — often filled with locals heading to work — leave every 10 minutes or so (more often during peak times) and tickets are purchased from the counter on the sidewalk using local currency. This 13-story building (counting the rooftop lounge) is one of the highest in this vertical city, with great views of pastel buildings and the Indian Ocean beyond. The entrance can be accessed from a small alley off one of the main streets. Guests who are adventurous can walk the entire circumference of the island in about an hour, or hire a private guide for a tour. Since alcohol is not served on the island, coffee shops are the place where locals, expats, and travelers tend to hang out. For a touch of sophistication, one can head to the the rooftop of the Hotel Jen, owned by Shangri-La, which serves mocktails overlooking the infinity pool and city views. There is an artificial beach on the island, but women should not wear Western-style swim wear in public. In fact, it is advised that women (and men, really) visiting Malé keep their shoulders and knees covered as a sign of respect. 

Lucky Hiya has some of the cheapest rates for travelers in the Maldives, so expectations should be kept to a minimum. All Standard Rooms have AC units, tube televisions, work desks, free Wi-Fi, and safes. Wooden furnishings -- especially in the Standard Rooms -- will probably show wear and tear. Beds have white sheets and beige blankets (more linens can be brought up from the "room boy" -- the local term for room attendant -- upon request). Bath towels are placed on the bed for arrival, and there are two bottles of water provided free of charge. Each room comes with a private bathroom, but the showers -- as is typical of budget Asian accommodations -- do not have curtains so the toilet area will get wet while bathing; in addition, water temperature can be unreliable. Toiletries include just a bottle each of shampoo and body wash. Deluxe Rooms and Suites rooms include all of the above but offer more space and possible additions: a dining table for two, a mini-fridge, hot water bottle, and/or flat-screen TV. Some of these units also have small balconies. Many rooms in all three categories have windows that open to hear the call to prayer.If there are any maintenance issues with the AC units or running water, staff are pretty prompt to check on things. However, cleanliness can be an issue, and one of the rooms we stayed in was infested with bed bugs. 

One of the best features of this budget hotel -- especially for hungry late-night arrivals or early departures -- is the 24-hour kitchen. There are four dining tables on the first floor next to the front desk and room service is offered, as well. Breakfast is simple and involves toast, beans, a sausage link, and a fried egg (some reservations include breakfast in the price). For lunch and dinner, there is a basic menu that includes American-style sandwiches, Italian-style pastas with red sauce, and Asian dishes like Pad Thai, as well as coffee, tea and fresh juices. In 2015, a new rooftop lounge will serve more Asian fare and non-alcoholic drinks (no alcohol is served or sold anywhere on the island). This lounge will eventually have a hot tub and areas for sunbathing. Westernized bathing suits are frowned upon in public -- including the artificial beach nearby -- but the owner wants to provide a sunbathing haven here. The 24-hour front desk staff can arrange a number of excursions such as fishing, snorkeling, scuba diving, and surfing, though customer service can be spotty. Picnic islands are a just boat ride away, which allow day-trippers access to barbecue and restroom facilities for a fee. Those short on time who want to see some city sights can hire a walking guide at a low price. Staff can also arrange for airport transfers, recommended especially on arrival for newbies to the Maldives. The owner, Ibrahim, and his business partner are working on more projects including a bungalow property on Gulhi island. In the future, guests at both properties may be able to share amenities. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout.