Hotel Schwarzenstein

Traditional South Tyrolean style and hyper-modern luxury decor collide at this family-run hotel, to pleasant effect. The mountain lodge exterior gives way to a modern entrance with all-glass walls. Inside, the long open space with stone floors and colored accent lighting, announcing that this isn't your grandfather's Alpine lodge. But the hotel's trendiness doesn't make it any less homey -- the expansive, family-run lodge has guests from around the region returning year after year, in summer and winter, for both the myriad on-site offerings and the proximity to the natural surroundings' outdoor adventures.

Hotel Schwarzenstein is in the small, quiet village of Lutago (population 1,000) within the Ahrntal Valley (Valle Aurina), near the border of Austria. There are three ski areas nearby: Speikboden is two minutes away by car, Klausberg is 10 minutes, and the Kronplatz ski slopes are 25 minutes away. The town of Brunico, 25-minutes to the south, has the nearest public transport station where buses depart for the entire valley. The hotel will happily arrange transportation from as far as the airport at Innsbruck, nearly two hours away. South Tyrol is unique for its Austro-Bavarian heritage as much as its Alpine geography. Italy’s northernmost province, it's known for its winter sports, wealthy economy, and German-speaking inhabitants. The town of Bolzano and its Dolomiti airport is a 90-minute drive to the southwest.

The rooms and suites at the Schwarzenstein fall into two camps: a classical alpine style or a sleek, contemporary style. The more classic rooms have either finished wood floors or lattice-patterned red carpets, with ornate decor, heavy drapes, and older furniture. The sleek, modern rooms vary, and still incorporate touches of mountain style. The Double Room Superior has back-lit walls and natural wood floors with grey designer furnishings and rough-hewn wood tables, while the Double Room Royal has a plaid bedspread and some wood beams. Bathrooms in all rooms are luxurious, outfitted with tile and marble. Many have double sink vanities and glass walk-in showers with separate tubs, although some of the newer rooms have open-plan bathrooms that open to the rest of the room. Each room has a private balcony or patio with panoramic mountain views. All rooms also have mini-fridges, but no coffeemakers.

Apart from its location, Hotel Schwarzenstein attracts devotees to its expansive spa, which has 10 different saunas and steam baths, an ice fountain, solarium, herbal bath, and large relaxation room with mountain views. Wellness amenities continue outdoors in the sprawling garden, where a natural pond provides a serene lounge and swim area. There are even more saunas in outbuildings scattered between the gardens, whirlpool hot tubs, and cabanas. The large indoor pool complex has a nontraditional lounge area that seems inspired by a dance club, and its pools connect to the two outdoor pools, one of which is an oversized lap pool. For kids, the popular play room is decorated like a mini-theme-park, with games and a climbing wall, and there's also a game room with pool and a TV aimed at teenagers. The hotel operates on a three-quarter-board plan, where dining is included at the hotel's buffets for breakfast and lunch (lunch options include soup and salads), and at the restaurant specializing in South Tyrolean cuisine for dinner (guests can choose from several courses). The lobby bar has a large indoor lounge area and an outdoor terrace, both of which can get quite lively in the evenings. Free shuttles to and from the nearby ski lifts operate each day in the winter months.