The Late Birds Lisbon – Gay Urban Resort

We've seen our share of gay guest houses and hotels around the world, but The Late Birds Lisbon is near the top of the pack. This hotel -- which strictly enforces its male-only policy -- is the only upscale option of its kind in Lisbon. Tucked away on a quiet side street, the hotel is essentially unmarked, but for an electronic key pad and bell bearing its name. Once inside, the effect is similarly unassuming and calm, like wandering into your new friend's extremely well-designed home. Chic couches and chairs are gathered around handsome vintage-style hardwood tables, while art monographs, plants, and a few decorative accents are arranged here and there, creating just the right mood. It's Scandinavian minimalism with a bit of warm Portuguese style, and a laid-back attitude to match.

Checking in here is like an informal conversation, as the receptionist explains what to see and do in the area at an unassuming desk or seated at one of the many couches. It's just one of the ways the hotel makes its guests feel immediately comfortable, and continues as guests are given a tour of the hotel on the way to their room. During the day, things are quiet, but in the evening the bar comes to life, as guests, gay travelers, and locals from across the city gather in the cozy bar, swapping stories next to the fireplace (which is lit in chilly weather). Given its exclusive nature, the hotel does go out of its way to remind guests that it has a male-only policy, and we saw men from all walks of life -- including solo travelers, couples, and friends -- during our visit.

At some point, nearly every visitor to Lisbon passes through Bairro Alto, the grid of streets that turns into an open-air party on nearly every night of the week. Luckily, The Late Birds Lisbon has one of the best spots in the city: it's just a three-minute walk to the epicenter of the neighborhood's nightlife, but on a quiet side street. It's also a five-minute walk to Trombeta Bath, the city's most popular male sauna. It's not all parties around here, though, and the classic cafes of Chiado's main plazas are less than 10 minutes away on foot. Stop in to Manteigaria on the walk to Chiado for one of the city's best pastel de nata. Great views of the Tagus River and hills are available from the Miradoura de Santa Caterina, a five-minute walk from the hotel. Head to Principe Real for boutiques, leafy squares, trendy cafes, and more gay nightlife -- the neighborhood is a 10- to 15-minute walk from the hotel depending on the destination. The closest metro is at Baixa-Chiado, a 13-minute walk from the property. It's possible to reach the airport using the metro -- the trip will take about 40 minutes overall. Alternatively, a cab to the airport takes around 20 minutes, though that can vary due to traffic.

Sometimes, less is more, and that aesthetic governs the look of the rooms at The Late Birds. The mostly white color scheme is bright and fresh, and feels far away from where most of us spend our everyday lives. Expect to see the same handsome minimalistic style used in the hotel's common areas, plus hardwood floors, crisp white bedding, colorful throws, and shabby-chic details like cases full of well-loved books. Some rooms are compact, but all have a tons of closets and drawers for storage, and larger suites are also available. Small details here make the difference, like the white knobs that twist to control the lights, and the built-in fixtures in the bathroom walls. We also loved how quiet it stayed at night (the blackout shutters help guarantee a good night's sleep as well). 

Standard features include free Wi-Fi and powerful individually controlled air-conditioning. There are no TVs, but each room has its own iMac computer for streaming entertainment. Certain rooms open onto shared terraces overlooking the garden and pool. Bathrooms have marble floors and sleek glass rainfall shower stalls. The floor in the bathroom did get a little wet in our room during the shower, so ask for an extra floor towel. The Castelbel toiletries -- from the northern city of Porto -- are an especially nice touch. Keep in mind that many bathrooms are separated by a frosted glass partition from the rest of the room, though this isn't exactly a hotel for the modest, considering its clothing optional pool policy.

Most boutique guest houses in Europe's historic capitals skimp on features because they simply don't have the space to offer them. That's not the case here. It's a rare hotel in Lisbon that has a pool and it's even rarer when that pool is in a lovely garden. The sleek space is abutted by a manicured lawn and terraces with seating. It feels private and away-from-it-all, and while the pool itself is more for a quick, cooling dip, it's a popular feature with previous guests. Clothing optional sunbathing is allowed there as well.

The hotel's common areas are open all day for those who want a place to kick back and read, or mingle with other guests, though they were mostly quiet during the day when we visited. In the evening, the bar serves an excellent array of classic and innovative cocktails, and pulls in guests of the hotel, gay travelers staying elsewhere, and locals. The owner, Carlos, is a frequently guest as well, and the whole vibe is friendly, social, and attitude-free -- that's not always the case in the gay hotel's we've seen. Events with local sports groups on occasions, as well as low-key gatherings like their Get Home Late Fridays, help make this a destination in its own right. 

Breakfast is the only meal served on-site, and takes place in a design-conscious room with large communal tables set amid rows of books and stacks of magazines. The space looks out onto the garden, and soft music plays. Offerings include cereal and granola, yogurts, fresh fruit, an assortment of breads, and scrambled eggs and fresh juice on request. The coffee is good and strong, which is key in party-hard Lisbon, and breakfast is available whenever guests wake up.

The hotel's app is particularly helpful for visitors to Lisbon. The owner has visited almost every shop, restaurant, and bar listed in its extensive guides, and various partnerships with local businesses are built into it as well. What's more? The app works offline, which is convenient for international travelers without data plans. The hotel has free Wi-Fi, and there is garage parking at the end of the block for a fee (not associated with the hotel).