Cubanacan Comodoro

El Comodoro is a hotel that’s doing battle with the elements and with time. The sea air and salt water has caused rust and peeling to the facade, an issue that the hotel is fighting with ongoing repairs. But the location also means outstanding sea views from the rooms, the restaurant, and the lobby -- the hotel’s most attractive indoor space. It’s here visitors can find evidence of the hotel’s glamorous past. The Comodoro was once a thriving casino; its dock would welcome high-rollers that would sail in from Florida and other Caribbean spots. A little of this glitter remains, particularly in the tiered mid-century chandelier at the entrance, the gold-crest logo above the front desk, and the 1950s ads in the lobby bar of coiffed models drinking Crystal (Cuban’s national beer).

The pools offer another highlight. Crisscrossed by terra-cotta-colored footbridges and undulating around the rooms, these freeform pools give a tranquil and refreshing spot to sunbathe or read a book. The kiddy pools are also refreshingly calm, but unfortunately one overlooks a shuttered discotheque (not affiliated with the hotel) that’s a bit of an eyesore.

Other public areas are less inviting, like the buffet restaurant that displays a shallow water feature housing a few sad-looking fish, the elevators with floors showing layers of worn linoleum, or the overly dark bungalow lounge, which stood empty despite its ping-pong and pool tables. And rooms also lack any hint of sparkle.

Due to its location near the embassies and the trade center, the Comodoro tends to draw business travelers, but families also come here to make use of the bungalows.

Hotel Comodoro is away from the cultural highlights of Old Havana. Set in the neighborhood of Miramar, the hotel is surrounded by embassies, and it's near the city's trade center (a nine-minute walk or three-minute drive away), which accounts for its business traveler clientele. The hotel is right on the water, but while it has a small beach, it’s not sandy. Major city sights are a short drive away. The Malecón, Havana’s waterfront promenade and the city’s prime people-watching spot, is a 10-minute drive away. La Floridita, Hemingway’s famed daiquiri bar, is a 16-minute drive. And the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (National Museum of Fine Arts) is a 13-minute drive. Havana's José Martí International Airport is 26 minutes away by car.

El Comodoro's rooms come in two categories: Standard Rooms or Bungalows, which are stacked in two stories with one unit on the bottom and the other on top capped with a terra-cotta roof. With white tile floors and yellow walls illuminated by weak lighting, the bungalows are simple and no-frills. Beachy bamboo and wicker couches and armchairs give seating. A glass dining table for four provides a proper spot for meals. All bungalows have small kitchenettes with two-burner stovetops, sinks, mini-fridges (stocked with drinks on request), and dishware and cookware supplied on request. But one notable absence is a coffeemaker or kettle. 

Standard Rooms have soft tropical colors like pinky-orange or seafoam green on the stucco walls. Dated, ‘80s-style artwork adorns the spaces, and furnishings include chipped wicker living room sets, bentwood chairs, and dated bedspreads. All standard rooms have terraces or balconies, though these are rusty and have peeling paint; they’re furnished with a white plastic lounger and side table, and have incredible sea views.

All rooms have air-conditioning, safes, mini-fridges, and TVs. TVs are either tube or older model flat-screens, which have cable channels. Bathrooms in both room categories are done in pink tile, and they're stocked with individual toiletries and hairdryers. The shower/tub combos have marks from minerals in the water, and ceilings and tan vanities often have water stains. Despite the fact that some rooms are nonsmoking, they can still smell of stale tobacco. Maintenance issues also crop up (a common issue across Cuban properties), and on our visit, some guests were complaining about a lack of running water in their room.

El Comodoro's main draw is its pool and small beach. Technically the freeform pool is split into seven bodies of water, four general pools and three for kids. Footbridges connect the sundeck, which is ringed with loungers and sun umbrellas. There’s a small rocky beach with ample loungers for sunbathing. Although it’s not suitable for sandcastles, it gives guests a little spot for a saltwater dip. Loungers and canopied daybeds are also outside facing the ocean, and there’s a central patio that offers alfresco seating with seaside views.

The Comodoro has three restaurants, one buffet and two a la carte serving Italian and Cuban fare respectively. A free buffet breakfast is included in the room rate, and it’s often accompanied by live accordion music, a festive touch. There are also multiple bars including a lobby bar, poolside snack bar (open 24 hours), and a grill bar by the beach. Room service is 24 hours. Entertainment comes in the form of jazz music in the lobby in the evenings and two or three live bands that visit the restaurants nightly. Once a week the hotel holds a spectacle with musicians and dancers doing salsa. 

Business travelers can make use of the three meeting rooms; the largest one is poolside and can fit 250 people. Wi-Fi is available in the lobby and the bungalow lobby. Guests purchase hourly Wi-Fi cards from the front desk, a system that’s commonly used throughout Cuba. (On our visit, cards were 4 Cuc each.) For families, cribs are available on request. Guests staying in the bungalows can also make use of the lounge there with ping-pong and pool tables. There’s also a giant chess set for super-sized games. Active travelers can make use of the hotel’s gym, which also holds a sauna; massage services are available. The on-site cigar shop makes their own cigars along with selling the usual top-shelf brands like Romeo y Juliet or Cohiba.