Le Manganao Hotel & Residences

Kids seem to be the ones really in charge at this hotel, which gears itself specifically to French-speaking families with younger kids. During our visit, we saw children rehearsing for talent shows or doing projects in the centrally located kids' club, begging strangers to take their photos in the kiddy pool (specifically: us), clustering on the gentle water slide under the bridge, or trying to figure out how to get the Nespresso machine to provide a completely unneeded caffeine buzz in the self-serve poolside snack bar. Adults, meanwhile, seemed content to let the staff take the reins while they suntanned and snoozed on the beach or a jetty. Those with allergies should note that cats tend to roam the grounds. 

The hotel is on the eastern tip of the southern side of Grande-Terre, outside of Saint-Francois. It's on a "touristic road" that's home to several gated hotels, within a 30-minute drive of many of the island's most popular tourist sights. However, during peak season tourists can throw out the GPS estimated driving times out the window with yesterday's baguette; the dense traffic of tourist season combined with painfully narrow roads and an underdeveloped road system can translate to much longer driving times. (One of the routes leading to the hotel from the west involves driving over a kilometer or more of badly pitted farm roads, some of them basically dirt and gravel, through farmland.) The drive from the airport at Pointe-a-Pitre should take about an hour in normal conditions, and it can take double that to reach the less-visited destinations on the far side of Basse-Terre. The good news is the the hotel is right on its own small beach, protected on each side by rocky jetties, so if the traffic reports aren't looking good, it's probably fine to just stay put and enjoy one of the more tourist-friendly areas of Guadeloupe.

The bulk of the hotel's room are housed in 16 two-story buildings on grassy, gentle hills not close to the beach -- bright blue-and-white buildings that seem mass-produced and identical, making it easy to lose your bearings. Privacy is an issue: Ground-floor room patios look right onto the sidewalk or at other guest buildings, and a crying baby was clearly audible in one neighboring room. Family Club Rooms start at 18 square meters (under 200 square feet) and range to 25 square meters (270 square feet); they will feel especially small for those hoping to use the pull-out sofa bed. The regular Club Rooms are 18 square meters and have double beds; they can fit a crib, but just barely. On the plus side, sunlight in the rooms is plentiful, and pleasant ocean breezes kept the air fresh and cool even during the hottest part of the day. Decor is cheerful, with gray and bright yellow accents, streamlined wood veneer furniture, and white tiles and walls. 

Families seeking more space should consider the apartments: The 4-Person Apartment is 40 square meters (430 square feet) and the 6-Person Apartment is 46 square meters (495 square feet). They have kitchenettes with mini-fridges, tableware, (limited) cookware, and stovetops. The decor is simpler and more dated than in the Club Rooms. 

All rooms have terraces (some with views of other buildings, some with views of the sea), AC, and flat-screen TVs. 

Children have plenty to do, what with the pool, beach, and kids' club. During our visit, 20 or 30 kids in stage makeup and costumes were rehearsing for a talent show. The club is free for kids under 11 and open during school holidays (or upon request). Those with older kids may prefer the PV-Holidays Village Pierre & Vacances de Sainte Anne, which has a teens' club as well as a kids' club. 

Every six months, the hotel rotates in a new troupe of entertainers from France and Guadeloupe, who put on comic skits, perform music, and organize other live acts. Note that organized activities such as bingo or karaoke are in French, though for some activities such as water aerobics a possible language barrier won't pose much of an issue. Guests can work off their buffet lunches at the fitness center, located in what appears to be a circular fort tower. (There's no AC inside though, and the fan doesn't really do much, so expect to sweat more than usual while exercising here.)

The hotel has a a big, self-serve, open-air snack and cocktail bar by the beach and pool. There are dedicated alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails available from machines (they change each day) and coffee machines; it's also possible to obtain wine and beer. There's also a huge Creole-Caribbean buffet restaurant serving all meals. Guests who opt for the all-inclusive package will have their breakfasts, lunches, dinners, and drinks covered (since drinks are self-serve, guests can indulge more easily -- unlike at Hôtel Fleur d'Epée where cocktails are only served during limited hours). 

Though the beach is small, it has fine white sand and there seemed to be enough sun loungers to accommodate everyone during our stay. The protected cove means that waves are calm, suitable for young children.