La Toubana Hotel & Spa

The parking lot outside isn't much to look at, but after stepping through the entrance the serene, intimate nature of the property is immediately felt. The wooden walkway that transports guests to reception, the restaurant and pool, and the beach is surrounded by a fish pond. (Those cylinders partially submerged in the pool by the restaurant are full of doomed lobsters, by the way.) The open-air restaurant is large for 44 rooms and goes right up to the infinity pool. It truly deserves the "infinity" moniker as it seems to meld seamlessly with the ocean, and is decorated with old cannons and portholes through which underwater swimmers can take in the sea view. The left path from the entrance branches off into greenery-lined walkways leading to carefully screened guest bungalows and to the beach area. The beach is home to a beach bar and restaurant, and a long pier that protects what amounts to the hotel's private cove, complete with its own boulder topped with a wooden platform. 

It may sound like a quick trip from the airport on paper, but what should be a 30-minute drive can take much longer during peak season, when the main road can turn into a parking lot -- and these conditions are the same for guests who leave the hotel for the nearby tourist sights of southern Grande-Terre. Even off-peak, roads are quite narrow, and parts of the journey can involve a dangerously twisty road that barely has room for two Paris-sized Citroens abreast. The hotel itself sits up a series of inclines and through residential areas that level off into the property's rather unlovely parking lot. Past the door, though, the location is hard to beat, and the property overlooks waves crashing against a daunting cliffside. It's also not far from a large public beach, but guests seem to prefer the hotel's own little beach -- for good reason. Most of the most popular tourist sights are within a 30-minute drive, traffic permitting. 

The bungalow decor doesn't wow, but it's attractively rustic -- picture traditional dark wood furniture, white duvets on the beds, white walls and vaulted ceilings, and contrasting red fabric accents. The smallish bedrooms have the modern comforts expected from a hotel at this price point (AC, cable TV, safes, Wi-Fi, hairdryers), but the real draw here are the spacious patios, most of which have good views of the sea. Bungalows come with small kitchenettes. Bathrooms are a bit on the small side. Rooms are carefully screened for privacy with wooden barriers and make good use of the mountainous slope to ensure guest privacy. Most rooms are Sea View Bungalows or Garden View Junior Suites, though there are also five larger Classic Suites and five Patio Suites. The Master Suite is the most luxurious accommodation, and comes with a private pool, laundry machine, coffeemaker, full bar, and living room. 

It's all about the beach and pool at this hotel, with good reason. The charming cove has its own platform-topped boulder, and a long pier for sunbathing, sailboat viewing, and diving. The ocean views from the chic infinity pool are what people think of when they hear the words "Caribbean vacation." For more corporeal needs, the Ocean Spa has three massage rooms and a (quite dark) hammam. For more corporate needs, two meeting rooms are available for rent -- the Salon Caraibes has a grand piano, but that doesn't hold a candle to the Salon Panoramic, which earns its name with grand views of the shoreline.

The main restaurant, Le Grand Bleu, serves all three meals (including the free breakfast buffet) and faces the ocean. Le Bar de La Mer is by the infinity pool, and the aptly named On the Beach serves cocktails and casual lunch fare.