Hotel Amaudo

This hotel is a serene haven based in an airy plantation-style building, located in a small gated property on a hilltop overlooking a bay where the sea crashes against green cliffs. It's well-suited to couples, as well as families with quiet, well-behaved children who speak in gentle tones. The dining area serves as the hotel's common area, and even during breakfast, when nearly all 10 rooms' guests are sitting down to eat, it's still impossible to miss that soothing, surging rumble from down below. When they're not at breakfast, in their rooms, or exploring the nearby fishing village of Saint-Francois, visitors soak in the sun by the infinity pool (which has a good view of those cliffs), or stroll the gently descending grounds to a gazebo with an even more impressive view. 

On a hill near the eastern tip of Guadeloupe's more popular half, Grand-Terre, the hotel sits at the beginning of the "touristic road" that slides gently downward toward Saint-Francois and is an artery for a series of seaside hotel properties. Count on an hour's drive from the Pointe-a-Pitre airport, though narrow roads, tourist-season congestion, and frequent construction may meddle with your ETA. Saint-Francois center is about a 10- to 15-minute drive to the east (staff said it's a one- to two-hour walk and advised against it), and Sainte-Anne is about twice that in the other direction. The only beach within walking distance (about 20 minutes through the immediate area's suburban streets, down a hill, and through a wooded path) is Anse de la Barque, which is narrow, largely strewn with debris (from seaweed to sandals), and unsuitable for swimming (the water is full of seaweed). There's a small area of beach closest to the entrance that has clean sand and enough space to lie down on, but the water there is full of rocks. There is, however, a better swimming beach about a five- to 10-minute drive to the east. 

This plantation-style building lets in lots of light and air and houses similarly bright, colonial-style rooms. Every one has a balcony or patio that looks out on the ocean. The decor incorporates rattan furniture, watercolor paintings of flowers, fruits, and villagers of Guadeloupe, and the kind of straw hats worn by sugarcane workers hanging on the wall. Even the Standard Rooms don't feel cramped, and the Standard Room bathrooms may actually be larger than those in the Superior Room or the Suite. The Suite -- which is technically the owner's own residence -- comes with a private pool, a study, living room, dining area, full kitchen, and a generous patio. Though the Standard Room we toured wasn't all that much smaller than the Superior Room, its front door opens right onto the lobby (it was the only room so situated).

The hotel knows its greatest asset is that amazing view, so it maximizes the enjoyment of it. Perfectly manicured garden paths lead down to a gazebo that overlooks the cliff -- there is, of course, a hammock inside -- and the infinity pool has a true infinity edge that makes it look like it merges with the sea. With advance notice, the hotel can arrange for breakfast to be brought to guests' rooms (for a charge). Besides that, the few but ever-present staff members can answer questions in the small lobby, or provide refreshments from behind the restaurant counter. Lunch and dinner are not available, and only the Suite has cooking facilities, so most guests should be prepared to drive to town for meals.