Green Lodge

After driving down the bumpy, unpaved road that leads to its entrance, Green Lodge feels like a little oasis. The meticulously kept property looks like a Polynesian dream, with thatched-roof bungalows, open-air living spaces, and a tiny pool with ocean views. Warm French owners Isabelle and Jean-Luc welcome guests with cool tropical drinks and give them a tour of the tiny property.  The majority of guests here are couples or solo travelers, but families with children are also welcome. Most are European, especially French. Thankfully, Isabelle and Jean Luc speak English and Spanish as well, so for most people, communicating is never an issue.   The word “pension” doesn’t have an exact translation in English, but roughly means “guesthouse.” Travelers can find inexpensive pensions all over Polynesia, but quality can vary drastically. Some resemble grimy hostels, with shared bathrooms and sheets that smell like mildew, while others feel like charming bed-and-breakfasts with welcoming hosts and clean, if simple, accommodations. Green Lodge definitely falls into the latter category, and while its owners classify it as a pension, we’d say that it feels more like a boutique hotel than a guesthouse — and its nightly rates reflect this. Green Lodge is typically more expensive than most local pensions, but it’s much nicer than any others we visited while in Moorea. 

Green Lodge is located behind Moorea airport, which is convenient for arrivals and departures, but not for exploring the island. Green Lodge is a bit removed from popular tourist sights, so activity-oriented guests will want to rent a car or motorbike. Taxis are widely available, but can get expensive. Because of its proximity to the airport, Green Lodge does experience some overhead airplane noise. From both the airport and the ferry terminal, it’s about a 10-minute drive to the pension, but the unpaved road guests must take in order to get there makes for a slow and bumpy ride. Moorea is a mountainous island located 10 nautical miles off the coast of Tahiti. The beautiful, quiet island is popular with honeymooners and families, and has a relaxed, laid-back feel. Travelers headed to Moorea will first need to fly to Papeete, Tahiti, where they can then take a quick 10-minute local flight, or a 45-minute ferry, to Moorea. 

There are six individually decorated bungalows at Green Lodge, all of which are similar in size and amenities. The only difference in room categorization is that two of the bungalows are beachfront, while the remaining four are considered garden bungalows. In reality, all rooms are mere steps from the beach. Another distinction is that one room is located upstairs in the pension’s main building. This room isn’t quite an independent bungalow, but has all of the same amenities and features as its freestanding counterparts. Rooms at Green Lodge have a relaxed, casual feel, but they’re much nicer than most pensions’ accommodations. The decor is modern, but still maintains a Polynesian authenticity. Bungalows have large front porches, wide plank wood floors, and thatch-work walls and ceilings. Local artwork and brightly colored bedspreads add color to the otherwise monotone palette. Bathrooms feel simultaneously spa-like and earthy, with textured stone showers, unpolished granite vessel sinks, and custom wood countertops. Some bathrooms, like the ones we saw in bungalows Fara and Tahinu, have a semi-outdoor feel thanks to open-air windows above the shower.  In-room amenities include mini-fridges, small flat-screen TVs, electric water kettles, and irons and ironing boards. All rooms are air-conditioned. Unfortunately, the pension’s Wi-Fi doesn’t extend past the lobby. 

Like most pensions, Green Lodge offers all guests free continental breakfast. Guests can also choose to have lunch and dinner, but they must let Isabelle know in advance. Lunch and dinner incur an extra fee. Breakfast typically consists of fresh baguettes and toast, local fruits and marmalades, yogurt, and coffee or tea. The lunch and dinner menus change daily, but during our visit, Isabelle prepared a delicious shrimp tempura starter, tuna sashimi main course, and homemade sherbet for dessert. We paired it with a freshly squeezed grapefruit cocktail, and we’d say it was the best meal we ate while in Moorea.  Just beyond the pension’s lobby/reception area is the gorgeous pool. Its tiny square shape makes it a great place for a quick dip, but that’s about it. Anyone looking to do some laps will have to head to the ocean. The pool is surrounded by large cushioned lounge chairs and a few umbrellas. The beach is literally a few steps from the pool area, and all of the pension’s bungalows. It’s a stunning stretch of sand, with incredible views of Tahiti and great snorkeling. The water directly in front of the hotel is a bit rough for swimming, but it gets calmer further down the beach. Green Lodge is also within walking distance of Temae Beach, a popular public beach with calm clear waters. Green Lodge’s lobby/reception area doubles as a place for guests to hang out. There are a bar, a pool table, and a few cushioned couches and chairs. This is also the area where guests can access the pension’s Wi-Fi, which unfortunately is not free.