Fenua Mata'i'oa

Meaning “ground where the breeze is pleasant,” Fenua Mata’i’oa certainly lives up to its name. Located on a calm, quiet lagoon, the lushly landscaped property feels like an island oasis. Stone pathways meander under the shade of low hanging palms, and secret gardens are nestled between tons of tropical foliage. The reception desk lies in the midst of it all — beneath swaths of leafy greenery and endless hanging vines. Rooms are equally hidden and offer tons of privacy to guests. The atmosphere is pin-drop quiet, save for the incessant sound of the owner’s cats purring throughout the day. 

As utopian as Fenua Mata’i’oa sounds, some may find it strange rather than charmingly eclectic. Decor throughout the hotel is highly personal, and is either fascinatingly intricate or stuffy and overbearing, depending on your taste. Whether it’s the menagerie of wide-eyed glass owls found throughout the common spaces, the lone hand sculpture on one room's dresser, or the cracked mirror and antique hairbrush set found in another, the decor of the entire hotel seems to have sprouted from a Faulkner novel. The "Grey Gardens," derelict mansion vibe certainly isn't for everyone.  

The majority of guests at Fenua Mata’i’oa are couples. Children are welcome, but with the ornate and sometimes very adult decor, this is probably not the best place for them. It should also be noted that the hotel’s French owner does not speak much English. 

Fenua Mata’i’oa is located in a residential neighborhood on Moorea’s northwest coast. Although it’s situated in front of a tranquil lagoon, the hotel is not beachfront. Guests can access the water from the hotel’s multiple docks, so it’s possible to swim, snorkel, and kayak — just don’t expect sand to lounge on. There isn’t much to see or do within walking distance, so guests will probably want to rent a car if they plan on exploring the island. Plus, taxis are expensive, and can be a hassle to get ahold of. Fenua Mata’i’oa is about a 40- to 45-minute drive from both the airport and the Moorea ferry terminal.  

Moorea is a mountainous island located 10 nautical miles off the coast of Tahiti. The beautiful, quiet island is popular with honeymooners and families, and has a relaxed, laid-back feel. Travelers headed to Moorea will first need to fly to Papeete, Tahiti, where they can then take a quick 10-minute local flight or a 45-minute ferry to Moorea.

Travelers looking for unique hotel rooms in Moorea will certainly find them at Fenua Mata’i’oa. Each room here is individually decorated in the owner’s highly specific personal style, which can best be described as Tahitian colonial with a splash of Moroccan Victorianism. Rooms are ornate, to say the least, and the over-the-top style may not appeal to everyone. Beds are dressed in satin quilts, topped with animal-print pillows, and decorated with tassels and elaborate canopies. Furniture cannot be defined by any era, as rooms have everything from brass daybeds, to leather ottomans and tufted arm chairs. And to top it all off, artwork ranges from Ganguin replicas, to Buddha heads, to African wood carvings. Nothing about the decor is consistent, which makes it charming to some and odd to others.

In-room amenities include flat-screen TVs, fully stocked mini-fridges (though items are not free), and electric kettles. In-room Wi-Fi incurs an extra charge, and many complain that it’s terribly slow. Bathrooms actually feel pretty luxurious, with large, pebbled walk-in showers, double sinks, spacious vanities, and separate water closets. All rooms have large covered patios with ample seating.  

Something we noticed during our visit is that all rooms (and hotel common areas) smell of stale cigarette smoke. Even though smoking is not permitted inside the rooms, the hotel owner is a smoker, and the smell seems to linger in the guest rooms. 

For the steep nightly rates at Fenua Mata’i’oa, it seems as though the hotel should have more amenities than it does. There’s no pool, spa, fitness center, on-site restaurant, or even free Wi-Fi, which leaves some guests questioning the hotel’s value. One thing Fenua Mata’i’oa has going for it is its incredible location. Set on a quiet lagoon, the hotel has access to some of Moorea’s most beautiful ocean water. The water is clear, calm and perfect for snorkeling, kayaking, or swimming. Oftentimes, guests can easily spot passing sting rays and reef sharks from the hotel’s docks. The hotel has free kayak and snorkel equipment for guests to use, and has a beautiful sunbathing dock with cushioned lounge chairs and umbrella-covered tables. 

There’s a small bar across from the reception desk, where guests can purchase drinks in the evening. Guests can also request meals for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. With advanced notice, the owner’s husband can prepare delicious local foods, but guests often complain that meals are outrageously expensive.