Au Phil Du Temps

The word “pension” doesn’t have an exact translation in English, but roughly means “guesthouse.” Travelers can find inexpensive pensions all over Polynesia, but quality can vary drastically. Some resemble grimy hostels, with shared bathrooms and sheets that smell like mildew, while others feel like charming bed-and-breakfasts with welcoming hosts and clean, if simple, accommodations. Pension Au Phil du Temps falls into the latter category, and wins our vote for best pension in all of Polynesia. Muriel and Franck, Au Phil du Temps’ hospitable owners, welcome guests like family into their home. Franck personally takes guests on local excursions, while Muriel prepares incredible meals, and keeps the property in tip-top shape. They go above and beyond the call of duty as pension owners, and strive to give their visitors an authentic taste of life on Taha’a — even if that means driving guests 40 minutes to the only pharmacy on the island to help them find antihistamines and hydrocortisone cream for an allergic reaction to a bug bite. We may or may not know from experience. Originally from the Bordeaux region of France, Muriel and Franck speak French, but Muriel also has a good handle on English. The couple love to spend time with their guests, and regularly invite them for aperitifs before dinner or join them for swims across the street at the small beach. Staying at Au Phil du Temps really does feel like staying with family, and the warm communal feeling spreads from owners to guests themselves, who get to know one another quickly during their stay. The majority of guests here are families, many of whom have young children. But Au Phil du Temps is also suited for couples, solo travelers, or just about anyone. Right before we arrived, Muriel and Franck hosted an 85-year-old woman, who was touring Polynesia “while she was still young.”  The gated entrance of Pension Au Phil du Temps leads to a small driveway and an impeccably kept garden. From the pension’s entrance, the entire property comes into view — one main house and two small cottages surround a grassy lawn flanked by flowering Tiare bushes and lush hibiscus. There’s no lobby or formal reception area. Instead, the owners show guests straight to their room, and give them a quick tour of the tiny property.  

Pension Au Phil du Temps is located on Taha’a, a small, quiet island that shares a bay with neighboring Raiatea. The island doesn’t have the glitz and glam of Bora Bora, the mountain peaks of Moorea, or the nightlife and dining options of Tahiti, but Taha’a has a special charm all its own. Travelers to Taha’a can visit pearl farms and vanilla plantations, snorkel in protected lagoons, or tour the island by car (with four-wheel drive). It’s a place where people come to relax and slow down.  In order to get to Taha’a, travelers must first fly to Papeete, Tahiti and then take a 45-minute local flight to Raiatea. From Raiatea, guests can take a 30-minute water taxi to Taha’a, where Muriel and Franck will pick them up and bring them to the pension. The pension is located on the western side of the island, which, on a clear day, offers stunning views of Bora Bora. Though not directly on the sand, Pension Au Phil du Temps is across the street from a small beach, where Muriel and Franck own a private dock.   

There are three rooms at Pension Au Phil du Temps — two bungalows and one room. The bungalows are decidedly more rustic than the independent room, but are larger and can accommodate more people. Each bungalow has two queen-size beds, one on the ground floor, and one in a tiny loft close to the pitched ceiling. Bathrooms are basic — toilet, small sink, and a shower with a manual hot water heater — but they’re spotlessly clean. Decor throughout is authentic Polynesian, with printed bedspreads and wood finishes. The independent room can accommodate three people, and in our opinion, is the nicest of the accommodation types. White walls, white floors, and white sheets give the room a bright, fresh feeling, while colorful local artwork adds a touch of vibrancy. The room is divided by a sliding glass door, which creates two separate spaces. On one side is a small wicker love seat, a twin-size mattress, and a mini-fridge, while the other side has a double mattress, a TV, and a tiny wardrobe. A small hallway leads to a private bathroom. There is no air-conditioning at Au Phil du Temps, but each room is equipped with a ceiling fan. 

Pension Au Phil du Temps doesn’t have typical hotel amenities like a pool, spa, or restaurant, but there are plenty of things to do on the island of Taha’a. Franck personally escorts guests on all excursions, and is happy to take them on a panoramic tour of the island, or to explore pearl farms, vanilla plantations, or coral gardens. Whatever guests want to do during their stay, Franck will arrange it for them. Muriel, on the other hand, prepares fantastic meals throughout the day. Though meals are not included in the standard room rate, guests can pay for meals when they want them (with advance notice to Muriel the day before), or can opt for a full-board nightly rate, which includes two meals per day. Food at Au Phil du Temps is fairly priced, and it’s unlikely you’ll find anything better at any restaurants on the island. Muriel is a fantastic cook, and prepares fresh, creative meals with local ingredients. She makes everything (we mean everything) from scratch. We wouldn’t be shocked if she told us she churns her own butter. Continental breakfast is served each morning, and typically includes fresh baguettes, giant fruit platters, and Muriel’s homemade yogurt and marmalades. Dinner consists of three courses, and is a marvelous display of Muriel’s creativity in the kitchen. We enjoyed a sashimi starter, a tuna with papaya au gratin for the main course, and a tropical fruit tart with hand-whipped cream for dessert.For guests looking to relax and take in the sunshine, there is a small beach across the street from Au Phil du Temps. Muriel and Franck own the dock that extends into the water, and have set up lounge chairs and a covered picnic table for guests to use. They also provide free kayaks and bicycles, if guests are looking for something a bit more active. Free Wi-Fi is available in the pension’s common area, but guests must ask for the access code in order to connect.