Wananavu Beach Resort

Wananavu means "wonderful" in Fijian, and the resort lives up to its name. There's an aspect of magic about this place -- not from the decor, rooms, or staff -- although all those things add to the charm. No, it's about the location, which starts with a bumpy drive toward the entrance surrounded by stunning scenery and a few village folks waving hello. The resort is spread out over 25 acres, with mango and flame trees fluttering in the breeze, and a palpable friendly vibe. One side of the hotel houses the long beach, while the other has a natural jetty where weddings are sometimes held. Jacques Cousteau called this the soft coral capital of the world, and Rakiraki is also the sunniest part of Fiji -- so sunsets and sunrises are usually a guarantee. Unfortunately this area was greatly affected by Cyclone Winston in February 2016, though this resort was mostly unscathed.

Guests are mostly Aussie (about 65 percent to be exact) and it's common for the staff to know everyone by name (and vice versa). During the day, it's rare to see too many others, as guests may be scuba diving, on the beach, snorkeling, or lying by the pool. The bar's nightly happy hour is well-attended, and followed by live music at dinner. Though families of all ages are welcome, the resort is decidedly romantic, in a laid-back way. On the last night of stay, departing guests are serenaded by the staff with a traditional song. Warning: it could lead to tears.  

Wananavu is one of a few hotels on the northern coast of Viti Levu -- the largest of Fiji's 330 islands. It's near the village of Rakiraki, which lies halfway between Nadi and the capital of Suva. Nadi (on the western side) of Viti Levu is home to the country's biggest airport and is about a two-and-a-half-hour drive from the resort. Guests can rent a car or staff can arrange transportation. The driving experience is a neat glimpse into Fiji, as travelers will pass several villages along the way with locals waving and smiling, not to mention glimpses of mountain ranges, blue water, and flowering plants. 

The road gets even more rugged as one nears the entrance. It culminates in a bumpy hill climb; if in a manual car, this could present a slight challenge, but the 360-degree views of the Sailstone Reef and Nananui Islands hint that a picturesque setting is at the end. The resort is hoping to have a road built here in the future.

The resort is boutique in size, with only 34 units ranging from studios for couples, to Two-Bedroom Bures for families, to a spacious four-bedroom villa that can fit up to 10 people (Villa Vanua). All units are full of charm (though also some wear and tear), most built floor-to-ceiling in local timber and decorated with colorful Fijian art. Many feel quite cottage-like, featuring a screen door that leads to the furnished wooden deck. Drinking water, French press coffeemakers, and kettles are included, while minibars offers items like beer, wine, and snacks at reasonable prices. There are no TVs or phones, but rooms have air-conditioning and Wi-Fi is available for a fee. 

Garden View Bures are more secluded and have pretty views that feel more remote than the others (and have slightly lower rates). Ocean View Bures are closer to the shore -- though some only have distant views -- while Beachfront Bures are closer to the water's edge for guaranteed ocean views. Honeymoon units (both ocean view and beachfront) have king-size canopied beds, plus decks with a private plunge pool and sun loungers. These also have stone outdoor showers. 

Fiji is known for world-class coral reefs and the resort attracts many divers for this reason. Two custom-built boats offer scuba diving with buddy teams, plus larger dive groups for beginners or advanced levels. Guests can also borrow kayaks, snorkel gear, and tennis equipment for the court. Otherwise, there is a pretty white-sand beach with sun loungers and hammocks, along a calm shoreline that's suitable for swimming. A medium-size outdoor pool has a waterfall feature and is surrounded by cushioned loungers and umbrellas; lunch can also be served here. 

The resort also often has daily activities such as crab racing, fish feeding, and coconut husking. More relaxation-minded guests can head to Wai Spa for massages, body therapies, or beauty treatments. There are plenty of other areas to explore and find places of solitude on this 25-acre property. 

The resort's only restaurant and bar has a beautiful wraparound deck overlooking flowering plants and the ocean beyond. Breakfast starts early and is included in the rate, featuring continental self-serve items such as fresh pastries, toast, fruit, and cereal. Servers also take orders for the main course, which consists of eggs cooked to order and a few sides such as lamb sausage and grilled tomatoes. Lunch and dinner are served a la carte style with daily specials, featuring fare grown on-site -- lettuce, cucumbers, snake beans, and Chinese broccoli, to name a few. However, the food receives mixed reviews. 

Every night there is live music from the house musicians and the bar stays open until the last person leaves. There is a decent wine list, along with cocktails, mocktails, and international beers available all day. A popular happy hour takes place each evening.