Toberua Island Resort

The Toberua experience begins at Nakaleo Landing, the mainland riverfront where a hotel boat picks up travelers headed for the island. After a 30-minute boat ride past provincial Fijian villages and lush mangroves, guests arrive at the Toberua dock, where general managers Max and Sandy, and a dozen other staff members, wait to greet them. Once on land, guests are led down sandy pathways to the bar and outdoor reception area, where check-in consists of cold towels, a welcome drink, and a few signatures. There are no room keys on the island, and guests leave the doors to their bures open all day. This relaxed, easy-going atmosphere is largely due to Max and Sandy’s warm, welcoming presence. The couple welcomes guests like family, and the staff follows suit. Hospitality is a trademark of Fijian culture, and it can surely be felt on Toberua. Staff members call guests by name, remember their likes and dislikes, and make personalized recommendations throughout their stay.  

The majority of guests at Toberua are couples, but the hotel tends to see more families during September and October, when Australia and New Zealand have school holidays. During these times, some couples may find the hotel a little too family-friendly. Due to Toberua’s compact nature, there is a lot of guest interaction on a daily basis, so couples looking for a kid-free vacation may want to avoid this time of year.  

It should be noted that Toberua is actually pronounced TOM-ber-oo-a. In the Fijian language, the letter “b” sounds like “mmmb,” instead of the English hard “b” sound.  

Similar Fijian phonetics turn words like Nadi into “NAN-dee,” Beqa into “BENG-a,” and Mamanuca into “Mama-noo-THA.” 

Toberua Island Resort and Spa is located on a four-acre private island off of Fiji’s eastern coast. In order to reach Toberua, guests must fly to Nasouri International Airport, and then take a 15-minute taxi to Nakaleo Landing. From the landing, Toberua is about a 30-minute boat ride, past rural Fijian villages and lush mangroves. The eastern side of Fiji tends to be rainier than its perpetually sunny western counterpart, but somehow Toberua seems to exist in its own micro-climate. Oftentimes, it can be raining on the mainland when guests land at Nasouri, but by the time they reach Toberua, it’s sunny, and the sky is free of clouds.   

Travelers coming from North America and Europe must first fly to Nadi International Airport (NAN), and then take a 30-minute flight to Nasouri (SUV). Some Australian and New Zealand airlines offer direct flights to Nasouri several times per week, but most connect in Nadi. For travelers with a bit of extra cash to spend, Toberua is also accessible by helicopter. The hotel is about an hour from Suva, Fiji's capital city.   

Rooms at Toberua aren’t luxurious, but they have an authentic Fijian feel with thatched roofs, wood floors, and louvered shutters. Plus, their authenticity is furthered by their lack of air-conditioning, TVs, and Wi-Fi connection. All rooms are incredibly spacious, and can accommodate two adults and two children. Decor throughout is simple, with Fijian flair. Floor-to-ceiling sliding doors let in lots of natural light. Rooms don’t have much furniture, save for a wooden armoire and chair set, and beds are simply dressed in blue or cream-colored spreads. In-room amenities include mini-fridges, French presses, and electric kettles. Bathrooms are a real highlight at Toberua, thanks to their large outdoor components. Though they don’t have outdoor showers, all bathrooms open up to private courtyards, giving them an indoor/outdoor feel. White tile and chrome fixtures help give bathrooms a bright, airy look, which is a nice contrast to the darker tones in the bedrooms. 

There are three room types at Toberua — Tropical Bures, Deluxe Bures, and Premium Bures. Rooms are housed in individual bures (Fijian for “houses”), and form a rough semi-circle around the property. All rooms are waterfront, and have fantastic ocean views, but Premium Bures are the only true beachfront category. Premium Bures are located directly on the sand, while Deluxe Bures are located in front of a sea wall. Tropical Bures are the hotel’s entry-level category, and are a bit smaller than their Deluxe and Premium counterparts. All rooms, no matter the category, have the same decor and amenities. 

For a tiny island, Toberua is packed with amenities. It has a pool, multiple beaches, loads of non-motorized water sports, a small spa, and its own dive shop. The resort also has tons of off-island activities that guests can take part in (for additional fees). Toberua serves three meals per day in its waterfront restaurant. While Toberua is not an all-inclusive resort, meal plans are available.  

Toberua’s pool is centrally located on the island, smack in the middle of all the bures. The abstract-kidney shaped pool is surrounded by cushioned lounge chairs, and one covered daybed. The pool is a popular spot for guests to relax, but it’s not the only area of the resort where guests spend their days. Thanks to the island’s multiple beaches and daily off-island activities, no area of the resort ever feels over-crowded.  

The crystal-clear waters that surround Toberua Island are perfect for swimming and snorkeling. Guests can find coral reefs just a few feet from the shore, and the hotel has free snorkel equipment for guests to use. Toberua also has kayaks, Hobie Cats, and paddleboards on its “water sports” beach. It should be noted that high tide consumes much of the beach each morning, and slowly moves out by early afternoon. The beaches aren’t the prettiest during low tide, but the hotel makes the most of the environmental changes. On one beach, the managers have set up a “low tide golf course” where guests can chip and put on the sand after the tide moves out. 

While it’s not the biggest or most luxurious spa we’ve ever seen, the Toberua Spa has two oceanfront rooms and a long list of treatment options. Guests can even purchase an unlimited spa package, which allows them to visit the spa as many times as they want during their stay. 

Spending time on a four-acre island can drive some guests a bit stir crazy, which is why Toberua offers daily off-island activities. Every night, guests are given a printed list of the next day’s activities, which can be booked the following morning at breakfast. Activities include picnicking on a secluded sand bar, hiking on the mainland, and kayaking through the nearby mangroves. The hotel also has its own dive center, where guests can book scuba diving and snorkeling excursions. During our visit, an entire family was getting PADI certified, and went on daily dives with the resort's instructors. Toberua also offers day trips to nearby villages where many employees live. During the visits, guests take part in a local welcome ceremony and learn about rural Fijian life. Many guests consider this a highlight of their trip, and recommend it as a “must” for anyone staying on Toberua. 

Dining at Toberua is a special experience, and a real highlight for anyone staying at the resort. The hotel doesn’t have the type of restaurant where anyone can order anything at any time, but instead serves meals at set times throughout the day. Everything, and we mean everything at Toberua is homemade, and the quality and freshness of the food served here is excellent. Each morning, breakfast is served buffet style. Guests can help themselves to continental items like muffins, fresh fruit, and cereal, and then choose from a small menu of hot items like omelets and fried eggs. Lunch and dinner are served a la carte. Guests choose from a daily changing menu that includes a few choices for appetizers, entrees, and deserts. Before mealtimes, staff members find guests wherever they are around the resort, and present them with the day’s menu options. Meals are pre-ordered, so that when guests arrive at lunch or dinner, food is served almost immediately. 

Toberua’s restaurant has indoor and outdoor components, but, weather permitting, all meals are served outside. The outdoor area has a relaxed, casual feel, with a sand-bottom floor and umbrella covered tables. Mealtimes are a treasured communal experience at Toberua. They’re the only times each day when all guests come together in one spot. Guests often chat with one another and trade stories about the day’s experiences or offer tips about upcoming activities.