Iguana Crossing

For first-time travelers, and maybe even for those who have been to the island dozens of times, arriving on Isabela is immediately captivating. The landscape of the volcanic island is mesmerizing, and driving down Puerto Villamil’s sandy streets feels like taking a step back in time. Kids run through the streets without concern for traffic. Couples sit on park benches sipping green coconuts. Old ladies hang their laundry to dry on windblown clotheslines. Everything moves at a slower pace. Tiny whitewashed buildings, some with crumbling facades or unfinished roofs, surround the city’s main drag — a dusty intersection with a park, a soccer field, and a few humble restaurants. But then at the edge of town, a complex wood and concrete structure appears like a mirage in the desert. Bold angles, floor-to-ceilings windows, and long curving balconies make this structure completely different from any other on the island. This is Iguana Crossing, surely the nicest hotel on Isabela. The only problem? It feels completely out of place.  

Arriving at Iguana Crossing feels like a shock to the system. After seeing the rest of Puerto Villamil, it’s almost hard to believe that a place like this even exists on the island. The sleek wood entry deck, the mosaic tile pool, the white cushioned daybeds — it all looks like it was picked up from somewhere in Miami, and plopped right here, on the dusty roads of Isabela. Don’t get us wrong, Iguana Crossing is a stunning property, and certainly the nicest on the island. But by staying in such a modern setting, one risks missing the point of visiting Isabela in the first place, and losing sight of the island’s uncomplicated charms. 

All types of travelers stay at Iguana Crossing. During our visit, we saw families with children, couples, young friend groups, and even a few retirees. The hotel also attracts quite the international crowd, including Americans, Germans, Russians, and Ecuadorians.  

Iguana Crossing gets its name from its location — there is an actual road sign in front of the hotel that warns drivers and pedestrians of iguanas crossing the street. Throughout the day, guests can watch iguanas cross the road from the beach to the marshy wet land next to the hotel. Iguana Crossing (both the hotel and the attraction) is located on the western edge of Puerto Villamil, the tiny port town on the island of Isabela. It’s about a five- to 10-minute walk from “downtown” — a dusty intersection surrounded by a church, a park, and about a dozen tourist-oriented restaurants. Though it’s not directly on the beach, Iguana Crossing is located right across the street from the sand.  

Geographically, Isabela is the largest island in the Galapagos, but with only 2,200 residents, it has the second-smallest population out of the four inhabited islands (tiny Floreana has a population of around 100). Isabela is a can’t-miss destination for Galapagos travelers. The volcanic island is a geologic wonder and has some of the world’s most diverse flora and fauna. Some must-see sights include La Concha de Perla, Urbina Bay, and Volcan Alcedo. But perhaps one of the most charming aspects of visiting Isabela is Puerto Villamil itself. The tiny town, with its sandy streets, humble restaurants, and friendly locals, has a utopian sort of feel. It’s the kind of place where couples dance outside, kids run through town with abandon, and old men nap on park benches in the afternoon sunlight. It’s a place where Friday night excitement consists of watching a pick-up game at the local soccer field, and Monday morning traffic means getting off your bicycle to let an iguana cross the road. It’s simple. It’s relaxed. And it feels like taking a step back in time. 

It should be noted that there are no banks, ATMs, or money conversion services anywhere on Isabela. While most hotels accept major credit cards, many restaurants and local shops only accept cash. Ecuador’s currency is the U.S. Dollar.

Rooms at Iguana Crossing feature sleek design and crisp, clean lines. The mostly white color palette — white walls, white floors, white bedding, white curtains — has a South Beach vibe. But dark furniture and bright accent pillows add color and depth to the otherwise monotone spaces. Rooms either have one king-size or two double beds, and categories include Standard Rooms and Junior Suites. Don’t be fooled by the label of the latter; they feel very much like a standard room with a king-size bed. They do have large outdoor balconies, though, whereas Standard Rooms do not. Rooms are equipped with flat-screen TVs, but there’s no cable. Each room does have a DVD player, so guests can bring their own DVDs, or borrow some from the hotel’s sizable collection. Rooms also have fully stocked minibars (fees apply), air conditioners, and ample storage space. 

Bathrooms are equally modern, with beige subway tile, polished wood counters, and enclosed glass showers. But despite their good looks, bathrooms aren’t entirely functional. Faucets have the tendency to sputter and hot water is hard to come by. Plus, showering here is horribly inconvenient. In an effort to conserve water, the hotel installed eco-friendly showers that only provide water for 10 seconds at a time. Guests must push a button in the shower several times in order to get the water flowing. But the shower stream only lasts 10 or 15 seconds. By the time you get the water working and pick up a bar of soap, it’s time to start pushing the button all over again. We understand that showering wastes tons of water, but there has to be a better system than the one Iguana Crossing has devised.    

Along with being the most upscale hotel in Isabela, Iguana Crossing also has more amenities than most of its neighbors. Its pool, rooftop lounge, and on-site bar are popular hangout spots for guests, plus free breakfast and Wi-Fi are definite perks. 

Iguana Crossing’s beautiful mosaic-tile pool is surrounded by a large wooden deck. The pool is fairly small, but has an awesome infinity edge with picture-perfect ocean views. White cushioned daybeds and white umbrellas give the pool scene a Miami vibe, but trust us, nothing too crazy goes on here during the day. Guests lounge in the sun, or eat lunch at one of the several tables on the deck. There’s also a cool covered lounge area for guests who want shade.  

Like all beaches in the Galapagos, the beach across the street from Iguana Crossing is public and free for everyone to use. This gorgeous stretch of sand is one of the most visited in Isabela, thanks to the hundreds of local iguanas who make their home on its shores. The water can be a little rough, so swim at your own risk. 

The hotel’s rooftop lounge offers stunning views of the beach and Puerto Villamil. The space is huge, and has several tables and couches, as well as its own hot tub. It’s a shame the hotel doesn’t take better advantage of it. During our visit, the bar was completely empty (not even stocked with alcohol), and no one seemed to venture upstairs. Instead, everyone hangs out at the first-floor bar. The bar, adjacent to the lobby, is decorated like a cozy living room. It has its own fireplace and several pillow-topped couches and lounge chairs. Floor-to-ceilings windows let in tons of natural light, and offer stunning views of the hotel’s surroundings. Guests can also order light meals and snacks from the bar, but advanced notice is required. 

Iguana Crossing offers free breakfast and Wi-Fi for all guests. Breakfast is served each morning in the breakfast room, a sunny space that overlooks the adjacent wetlands. Breakfast consists of continental offerings like pastries, fresh fruit, yogurt, and cereal, but guests can also request hot items like eggs and omelets. Wi-Fi is free and works throughout the hotel, but it can be slow and terribly spotty. The Galapagos isn’t known to have excellent Wi-Fi reception, but it seems to be especially bad on Isabela.