Ylang Ylang Beach Resort

A little culture shock is common when first arriving to the hotel -- scratch that, when first arriving to town. Teeming with young, attractive hippies types -- most wearing nothing but swimwear -- Montezuma suddenly appears into view at the bottom of a steep hill with a compact and slightly confusing layout. Guests are given the task of finding the restaurant in town that offers parking for Ylang Ylang, then a bartender will call for pick-up. In other words, getting to the destination is part of the travel adventure, especially when someone pulls up in a Mercedes Defender or dune buggy, drives along the beach (literally in the sand) past an expat tent city, before guests finally check in with a fresh fruit juice and cool towel.Open since 1999, Ylang Ylang is now run by a second generation: the original owner’s son and his yoga-instructor wife. Many of the talented staff (especially in the kitchen) have stayed on board for years and the vibe is both friendly and health-oriented. Tropical grounds and a wide sandy beach are scattered with hammocks and outdoor tables. Pathways -- some that turn into nature trails -- lead to the pool, spa, and rooms; walking along them reveal a multitude of exotic birds and small animals, many that seem unfamiliar. Breakfast sees the most action, and this communal presence is a chance for guests to chat amongst each other before everyone spreads out to enjoy the open surroundings. Dinners (also included) turn romantic with candlelight. Families may go to bed early, while couples order drinks under the stars, or hoof it to town to check out the party scene. The hotel itself -- due to its yogi and honeymooner presence -- stays quiet at night, which is good for those who are focused on wellness. But many who stay here also know how to have their share of fun.  

Montezuma -- in the very southwest corner of Nicoya Penisula -- is one of the most distinct travel destinations in Costa Rica, not only for the wildly steep hairpin turn that is required to arrive into town, but also the counter-culture environment that attracts even more new-age hippie types than other surf towns nearby. The hotel -- thankfully for many -- is at the end of the beach, which stays quieter than the hub and nearby tent city (where some expats sleep for free). However, this beach driveway is not accessible for guests with vehicles, and the unpaved, natural environment of the hotel does not offer parking to anyone. First-timers with luggage require a visit to a restaurant in Montezuma, where they can schedule pick-up via a sturdy 4x4 or dune buggy. Once arrived though, guests can enjoy several activities on-site; they can take nature trails, hike to Montezuma Waterfalls, or join a number of arranged excursions. Walking back and forth to town for laid-back restaurants and bars (no chains here) can be done in about 15 minutes. Therefore, unless guests are planning on doing some heavy exploring in the area, it is better not to have a car at all. If anything, it makes sense to rent an ATV for the day. Any longer, and they, like the cars, will have to stay in town parked at the restaurant.Though it is not easy -- thereby keeping out conventional tourists who favor paved roads and bigger resorts -- there are a few different options for getting to this corner of the peninsula. One is to take a commuter plane from Liberia or San Jose International Airport into the smaller Tambor Airport, and then a 40-minute taxi to the hotel (some roads will be a rough). Another option is to take the ferry from Puntarenas to Tambor, though ferry times are not always reliable. Another ferry makes regular rounds between Jaco and Montezuma, though guests will have to get to Jaco first -- which is a two-hour drive west of San Jose. 

The are only 22 rooms, but spacious grounds and a wide beach make it feel much bigger than this. The hotel is popular with laid-back romantic couples (many honeymooners), families with kids, friends, siblings, and wedding parties -- therefore, it's not an easy reservation to secure, so it's best to book well in advance. All rooms -- even the tents -- have private bathrooms with showers, hot water, and empty mini-fridges, and include breakfast and dinner, daily, for two people. This helps allow the hotel to raise rates, which on their own -- without the meals (and all the other highlights) -- would feel a little steep for the room quality. Some might be put off by the patterned bedspreads, but they are clean and washed between guests. Six Tent Cabins are located on the other side of the entrance, surrounded by coconut palms and mango trees. These have wooden floors and either two single beds or one King-sized bed, though no air-conditioning. Instead, large screens and fans work with the ocean breezes to keep guests cool. The Tent Cabins have front porches with small, slightly rustic bathrooms attached. Since the rooms are screened, noise from nearby tents may be audible. A three-story building with Standard Rooms is located past the pool and have two Queen-sized beds and porches -- though these are the least authentic of the bunch, better for friends and families. Beach Front and Garden Bungalows are standalone units best suited for romantics, with one Queen-sized bed and neat -- almost retro -- pointed windows and a rounded layout in each. (The Colibri Bungalow can sleep up to four people.) A rare option for honeymooners is the Tree Top Canopy. This private retreat, reached via 50 stairs, has a wraparound screened-in porch and air-conditioned bedroom. There is a small kitchen with a fridge and utensils, but no stove. 

The location of Ylang Ylang is along a white sand beach with rocky areas and, sometimes, big waves. This might not be safe enough for kids to swim, but there are spots up and down that can be scouted for calmer waves -- though every so often, a big one might still make an appearance. Some areas are great for surfing and boogie boarding but be careful of those rocks (it's best to follow the locals). Also within walking distance (kinda) is Playa Grande, a deserted beach that can be reached in about a half hour.In the center of the property is a peaceful outdoor pool with a waterfall and lounge chairs. This does not get very crowded, and drink and lunch service can be served here.  One of the highlights of the hotel is the yoga deck above the restaurant where there are daily classes for a fee. The completely wooden structure, on the second floor with incredible ocean views,  is a jaw-dropper for yogis. Walk-in classes are open to everyone (Ylang Ylang guests and non-guests), and once in a while there is a yoga retreat. Since the studio is next to the resort hub, socializing might be a nuisance for those trying to concentrate.  All room rates include breakfast and a candlelit dinner for two in the restaurant, with two seating areas in the shade or on the terrace. There are a few tables on the lawn for a change of pace, or guests can arrange for beachside dining. Breakfast includes one dish, one natural juice, and coffee or tea. Dinner includes a main course and a natural juice. A children’s menu is included for dinner only. Main courses include vegan and gluten-free options, along with sushi rolls, pastas, wraps, nachos, fresh fish, and chicken -- but no red meat. Items can be purchased á la carte for those who are still hungry after meals. Natural juices are also highlights here, and the kitchen staff takes great pride in the local ingredients, like passion fruit and coconut milk, made daily. Every afternoon there's an extended happy hour with reduced prices on cocktails, wine, and beer. The spa is located high in the trees and out of earshot. There are two treatment rooms in large screened-in tents separated by a staircase. One is for singles and one is for couples. A gift shop near reception offers clothes, coffee, cold beverages and water sport rentals. The hotel is eco-friendly to the core with strong recycling standards and solar panels that provide electricity for the rooms, restaurant and front desk.