Leaves and Lizards Arenal Volcano Cabin Retreat

Cheery and little bit off-the-wall, Leaves and Lizards consists of a series of hilltop buildings along a shared road with a handful of neighbors. The buildings were designed, built, and decorated by one of the owners, native Floridian Steve, and the fun-loving quirkiness and love of the area shows in details like the wooden doors carved with toucans, volcanos, and monkeys. The popular Hobbit Hole room was built into the side of a hill and is just begging to be romped around in by children and children at heart. The dining room (the home of the resident parrot, Lorita) has a fantastic view of the volcano, and, at least during our visit, the nearby feeder drew in more species of birds than we'd seen in the area in a week and a half, including a flock of toucans.

The hotel is one of the most remote options guests can book in the Arenal region; only Finca Luna Nueva Lodge (which also has a working farm) can compare in terms of seclusion. Those who would prefer to be a bit closer to the action might consider the similarly priced Hotel Silencio del Campo and Arenal Kioro Suites and Spa, which offer on-site hot springs and pools (both lacking here) and are nearer to the main road. 

The hotel is about as secluded as you can get in the touristy Arenal region, and if you really want to get away from it all, this is the place to go. There are three possible routes to reach the property but all involve traveling on at least three kilometers (a little under two miles) of treacherous road -- think loose rocks, major divots, and (on one route) a bridge that washes in the rain. It can sometimes take nearly an hour to reach the property from La Fortuna, depending on conditions (the hotel website says it takes 25 minutes). A four-wheel drive is highly recommended. If the point of your trip is to find seclusion -- and not to shop in town or take day trips around the region -- then this is a great pick. 

Almost every room at Leaves and Lizards is unique, and they were built and designed by the owners to draw guests into the atmosphere of the rainforest. Expect carved-wood doors depicting the volcano, monkeys, or toucans, teakwood balconies that thrust out over the trees, and sometimes an outdoor shower or a shower room with a ceiling open to the elements. Rooms are named for their decor theme, and options include the Toucan Room, the Volcano Room, and the Hummingbird Room. The star of the property, however, is the Hobbit Hole, built into the side of a hill, a round den with a large bed, two bunk beds, and a Tolkien-esque aesthetic. Views of the volcano and rainforest are spectacular in all rooms but the Heliconia Room, but curtains, strangely enough, are lacking, so you wake up when the sun does. There are no TVs or air conditioners, but few guests seem to mind. 

Every morning at 7 a.m., guests are welcome to visit the hotel farm and milk the cow or collect their own eggs for breakfast. The breakfast is included in the rate, and the Lava Lizard also offers truly farm-to-table fare for lunch and dinner -- though guests must make reservations, as the restaurant exclusively serves the guests of the property's nine rooms.  

There are also 20-some horses guests can hire to ride the trails nearby. (The hotel also organizes a number of rides and workshops.) But the main draw here is the feeling of being all alone in the rainforest.

There are no hot springs or pool here -- for that, consider the Hotel Silencio del Campo or Arenal Kioro Suites and Spa.