Hotel Del Rey

Ask anyone in San Jose, and they will surely have a story or two about Hotel Del Rey, which dates to the 1940s. The salmon-colored neoclassic building sits on a prime corner spot downtown, and there are typically hawkers, tourists, taxi drivers, a few sketchy types, and policemen found around the premises. Entering the lobby, which has an unmarked mirrored glass doorway, is a little daunting, and there are security guards waiting right inside. Past the reception and travel desks are a lobby bar and casino where women (many locals as well as Colombians, Brazilians, and Dominicans) may be hanging out looking for friends. Yes, prostitution is legal in Costa Rica.

This is obviously not a place to bring the whole family, nor are kids allowed. But groups of men or guys traveling solo tend to come here for the experience, which is hard to replicate. The owner, John, is an older guy who started the place 25 years ago when he bought Key Largo, and eventually added the hotel. He may be found in the lobby, unsmiling and keeping an eye on things (he lives on the sixth floor), but he's not a chatty fellow to most strangers -- it's best to just leave him alone. The bars are scattered all over the first floor and around the block, and one could spend an entire day bar-hopping in the hotel alone. Cameras are everywhere and there are 25 security guards at night keep watch over the place. The hotel has a strict visitor policy meaning everyone staying in a room must sign in guests.

The bars host plenty of fun events (where costumes play a big part), including Super Bowl, Halloween, and even Thanksgiving. Bartenders wear sexy costumes every night of the week and there's a party vibe at all hours of the day. As the charismatic female general manager puts it: "It's a party place with rules." One thing's for sure: The most famous brothel in Central America is anything but boring. 

Hotel Del Rey is in the heart of downtown San Jose -- Costa Rica’s capital and largest city -- at the intersection of Avenue 1 and Calle 9, a block from Parque Morazán. This central spot is walking distance to shops, dining options, markets, and cultural landmarks such as the National Theatre, National Cathedral, Gold Museum, and Plaza de La Cultura. Those who want to experience a quick dose of local life can simply stroll along Central Avenue Boulevard midday, when workers are on their lunch break, and explore Mercado Central. Let’s face it, though: Most people staying here are interested in partying, and with bars situated in the hotel, at Key Largo, and across the street from the Blue Marlin, they find little reason to leave the vicinity.  

Many guests stay for a night (or several) to let loose, and don't use this as a base for a sightseeing vacation. The hotel is 20 minutes from Juan Santamaria International Airport (SJO) and a two-hour drive to the Pacific coast. There is an urban bus system to get around the city, or guests can flag down a red taxi. Rental cars can be arranged at the front desk, and there is free and secure parking for overnight guests in uncovered lots across the street. 

There are 104 rooms in this seven-story property in the following three categories: Standard, Deluxe, and Master. They are basic and dated, with wood furnishings, carpeting, and patterned bedspreads that are cleaned between stays. The housekeeping staff cleans rooms thoroughly -- an important consideration at a hotel that caters to sex tourism. Every two years the carpeting, TVs, and bedding are replaced, and all linens -- including quilts and bedspreads -- are actually made on-site. Each room is equipped with an air freshener. For those looking for more peace and quiet, ask for a room on the backside of the hotel. 

Standard Rooms have one king-size bed or two queen-size beds, air-conditioning, a ceiling fan, stocked (and locked) minibar, and flat-screen TVs. These are more budget-friendly, but some room configurations -- like the corner Standard Double that we saw -- are quite spacious. Bathrooms have either walk-in showers or tub/shower combos -- some have rain showerheads and others do not. Toiletries (shampoo and shower gel) are in eco-friendly wall-mounted bulk containers, and bar soap and lotions are offered next to the sink. 

Deluxe Rooms are located on the sixth floor of the building and have connecting balconies -- a good option for those partying with a group of friends. These rooms all have a king-size beds. One-, two-, or three-bedroom Master Suites are on the top floor and have carved wooden ceilings, living areas, and corner balconies. 

Each hotel room has a different mahogany hand-carved door with Costa Rican motif, such as toucans and monkeys.

The biggest draw at Hotel Del Rey is the nightlife, and the 10 bars stretch three blocks. Drink prices are reasonable and plenty of specials are listed throughout the day; friendly female bartenders in scantily clad outfits are experts at their profession and can mix drinks with the best of them. The lobby bar serves coffee and espresso in the morning. Beyond the lobby is a small 24-hour casino, attached to the Blue Marlin bar. Girls may be hanging around talking to each other, or solo and on the prowl. Security guards keep a close eye on things. Across the street is the Little Marlin bar, with pool tables and several TVs for sporting events.

Catty-corner to the hotel and across a parking lot is the main restaurant, called Del Rey and housed in a former coffee plantation. It serves all three meals to guests and locals, and even business types in suits. With pristine wood floors, chandeliers, ornate ceilings, oil paintings, and a beautiful garden, this restaurant is more upscale than the rest of the hotel. Though there is a buffet for breakfast and lunch, the kitchen serves 24-hour a la carte gourmet international food, including seafood, and prime meats from Chile and USA. There's an extensive wine list from Latin America, California, Europe, and Australia. The restaurant is divided into several rooms, and in front is a beautiful garden area with benches and two front porches. The whole place is surprisingly classy and has a certain charm. 

Key Largo Bar is in a different space, attached to the restaurant through a hallway. It also has historic touches such as ornate wood paneled walls and ceilings. The Key Largo entertainment space has four entirely different bar areas, with pool tables, a dance floor, and different local bands playing Latin music every night of the week.