Hotel Borinquen Mountain Resort

Literally in the middle of nowhere, Hotel Borinquen Mountain Resort is a secluded mountain retreat. After a long, bumpy ride to the resort, guests are greeted by a bright orange building with a matching Spanish tile roof. Inside, the lobby is warm and inviting, with vaulted wood-beam ceilings and mustard yellow walls. Simple wood furniture with Spanish flair creates a small seating area in the center of the room, but otherwise there’s not much going on. From the lobby’s entrance, the entire hilly property comes into view.  

The majority of guests at Borinquen are couples looking for a relaxing outdoor retreat. Families with children are certainly welcome, but the upscale nature of Borinquen is better suited for adults. Most people choose to stay at Borinquen for a few days, and then continue their vacation elsewhere in Guanacaste. Although there’s plenty to do at the resort, some travelers find the secluded location and lack of civilization a bit boring after a few days.    

If you manage to make it to Borinquen in one piece, or at least without a pounding headache, consider yourself lucky. The trek to the hotel isn’t an easy one, and road conditions are poor. Depending on the season, roads are either slick with mud or dry and rocky, making for an incredibly bumpy ride. We braved the drive ourselves, but take our advice, it’s better to leave transportation to the experts (aka locals who know how to handle the road conditions). If you do decide to drive yourself, you’ll want an SUV and plenty of daylight hours. Trust us when we say you don’t want to get stuck on a deserted road in the middle of Rincon de la Vieja after dark. And however many hours Google Maps suggests it’ll take to reach Borinquen, go ahead and double that number. You’ll likely be driving at 20 kilometers per hour for a good majority of the trip. Once up in the mountains, there should be a shanty sign for the hotel about every 10 kilometers. 

But don’t let the roads to Borinquen scare you away. Any mountain resort in Costa Rica will likely require a similar trek. The reward for such a harrowing trip? A blissfully quiet retreat in the middle of pure wilderness. The Costa Rican penchant for “Pura Vida,” or “Pure Life” can really be felt around here. The scenery is untouched, howler monkeys swing through the trees, daytime lingers at a slower pace, and the lack of light pollution brings a different kind of darkness to nighttime. But while the seclusion is a major part of the appeal, it can also be a downside for some. There’s absolutely nothing around the resort, which some guests may find a bit stifling after a few days. The hotel is roughly two hours (strong emphasis on the word roughly) from Guanacaste’s Liberia Airport.  

It should be noted that Borinquen’s property is essentially one giant hill, with rooms at the top, the lobby and restaurant in the middle, and amenities like the pool, hot springs, and spa at the bottom. It’s difficult for anyone to get around, but might prove especially challenging for people with special mobility requirements, or those traveling with small children.  

At Borinquen, rooms are freestanding casitas tucked into the hillside. The individual “little houses” have Spanish tile roofs and large windows. Each is surrounded by trees, which not only offer complete privacy, but give rooms a rustic, tree-house like feel. Inside, dark wood vaulted ceilings and wrought-iron chandeliers add a touch of elegance, while terra-cotta tile floors and bright wall art add some Costa Rican flair. Bathrooms aren’t particularly luxe, but have large walk-in showers and vanities. 

The hotel has five room types: Villas, Bungalows, Superior Bungalows, Deluxe Bungalows, and Junior Suites — the differences between which are minor. For example, upgrading from a Superior Bungalow to a Deluxe Bungalow means upgrading from a sleigh bed to a four-poster bed. Guests looking for lots of space should go ahead and book the Junior Suite, which is equipped with a huge bedroom, separate living room, and a massive bathroom with a jetted tub. All rooms have flat-screen TVs, coffeemakers, mini-fridges, and private balconies. Some balconies have awesome hammocks while others have cushioned lounge chairs. All room rates include breakfast. 

Guests are attracted to Borinquen for all of the incredible outdoor activities that can be done on premises. Excursions like hiking the base of Rincon de La Vieja, horseback riding, swimming in waterfalls and natural pools, sliding down a natural water slide, zip-lining, and whitewater rafting can all be arranged at the hotel, and are done somewhere in the surrounding mountains. Trained hotel staff members accompany guests on all excursions. Borinquen also accommodates daytime guests, so even travelers who are not staying at the resort can take part in these awesome activities. Advanced booking is required, for guests and non-guests alike.   

Along with excursions, Borinquen is also known for its on-site hot springs and thermal pools. The property sits above volcanic hot springs, which the hotel pumps from a natural well into three man-made pools. The pools are arranged at the bottom of the hilly property, in between the natural sauna and the spa. Guests are encouraged to cover their bodies in volcanic mud (provided) and then spend time in each of the thermal pools, which range in temperature from icy cold, to hot, to really really hot. The process is considered a natural spa treatment, and is supposed to rejuvenate the skin, joints, and muscles. Thanks to the hot springs, the hotel also has a natural sauna, where steam naturally rises from the hot springs into a man-made hut. The only drawback is that sometimes the hot springs can produce a sulfuric smell that gradually spreads across the property.   

Borinquen does also have its own spa where massages, facials, and body wraps are the name of the game. The spa has a rustic, natural feel, with treatment rooms that overlook the surrounding forrest and foliage. 

Borinquen’s swimming pool (not to be confused with the thermal pools) is a large freeform shape, with a zero-entry point and faux rock formations. Its design is meant to blend in with its natural surroundings, and despite its bright aqua blue water and swim-up bar, it does manage to resemble a lagoon of sorts. The pool certainly isn’t the highlight of the property, but it is a nice place to relax after a long day of outdoor activities. 

Though the hotel’s website may try to convince you otherwise, there is only one on-site restaurant at Borinquen. Since there is absolutely nothing surrounding the property, it is guests’ only dining option during their stay. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and serves an array of Costa Rican and international dishes. The food is decent, but don’t expect dining here to be the culinary experience of a lifetime. Breakfast is included in the room rates, but lunch and dinner are not. The restaurant is also the only place on the property with Wi-Fi, which is free for all guests. Besides eating dinner at night, there really isn’t anything to do at the hotel after dark.