Hotel Punta Leona

It is easy to get lost in this 740-acre private reserve from the get-go, especially if arriving from Jaco. Google Maps could send you down a dirt road that leads to the small village of Punta Leona (and reception), but this is not the correct way. Further north on Highway 34 is the main entrance with a security guard who checks the name and provides a slip of paper that allows access to the reception area. Without this slip of paper (or knowing that you've come down the wrong drive), it can make for a very awkward check-in process arguing with a second security guard who does not speak English and who will not let you into reception. After an expensive cell phone call to the front desk, the mess clears up. Let's hope that nobody's arrival is this frustrating, but it could easily happen, with a language barrier playing a significant role. Few staff here speak fluent English since the resort attracts mostly Spanish-speaking locals, as well as French and German tour groups. These groups arrive together in buses driven by drivers who already know the route, which -- to its defense -- is a pretty road that winds past natural landscape including some traveler’s palms and cows, finally landing at the small village of Punta Leona where the hotel is spread out in several sections. 

Guests each receive a bracelet, a list of daily activities for the week, and a map, which will definitely come in handy. Like the entry, the layout is unusual and somewhat confusing. Shuttles are required (in the humidity) to get from place to place, or guests can hoof it, or drive (free parking is provided at each hub). Most of the rooms are located in a garden area that is sectioned of by little lanes with the names of countries like Cuba, Haiti, and Jamaica, with a buffet restaurant and small pool. But both beach areas -- one that has a large outdoor pool area, and the other, a white sand beach, are both a trek away. In between are opportunities for family-friendly activities and games that keep kids occupied. Guests of all ages will likely spend most of their time here, which could make younger ones feel isolated. Older folks, though -- which are common here -- might have less of a problem with the somewhat aging property and bland nightlife.

Punta Leona is a hotel and village of the same name that is just north of Jaco -- a bustling tourist city along Costa Rica's Pacific Coast. This is the closest beach area to San Jose (less than two hours driving), with low-lying mountains and beautiful sunset views. Consistent waves and warm ocean temperatures make this one of the more popular surfing spots in the country. In Jaco, about 15 minutes away, there are dozens of restaurants, bars, and surf shops to explore on the central paved road. A newer resort called Croc's has a large casino.  

Depending on traffic, it takes about two hours to arrive from San José's international airport. Those who rent a car from the airport will see signs for Punta Leona and the entrance on the right side. If arriving from the south, make sure to skip the first driveway that is often denoted on GPS and Google Maps, and continue on Highway 34 until the obvious main entrance is located. For those without a car, a shuttle makes rounds around key points every half hour, as well as a few times a day to the main gate. The resort is somewhat off the beaten path, and taxis to get off the property can get expensive since they have to drive all the way in. Groups excursions, however, like to the rainforest Carara National Park (popular for wild Scarlet Macaws) and Manuel Antonio National Park, can be arranged and will include transportation in the price. 

There are eight types of accommodations in different areas of the hotel grounds. The bulk of the basic rooms (which lack kitchens) are located in the Selvamar area and come in either Standard or Superior, separated into pathways named after different countries. These are a good value, but interiors feel dated with orange and beige bedspreads, green walls, and dark wood furnishings. Some updates have been made (flat-screen TVs have been added), and each one is equipped with a mini-fridge and coffeemaker. Standard rooms have double beds, while some Superior rooms have King-sized beds and balconies. Since this part of the hotel is in a dense tropical environment, exotic bugs could be a nuisance, so the balconies may go unused. All bathrooms have walk-in showers and basic toiletries. 

In another area of the grounds are the Double Chalet apartments, which are two bedroom/two bathroom units that have narrow living rooms and kitchens; these also show some age. They are located in the heart of the complex, surrounded by nature, and they have easier access to the main hub of the hotel. The newest apartment-style units are in the Arrecifes section, with more modernity and natural light (and a great pool). On the far end of the property are apartments in a section called Leonamar, but like the Double Chalets, these are showing their age. What they do offer, though, are ocean views, access to a nice infinity pool, and a location within walking distance (down a rustic pathway) to the white-sand beach.

Guests have access to two beaches: one closer to reception (Playa Mantas) and another on the other end of the property (Playa Blanca) that definitely requires a car or shuttle to reach. Mantas is a wider beach with slightly darker sand, but the water may show some debris and dark backwash making it uninviting for swims (it is pretty at sunset though). Blanca is the whiter sand beach -- well known in the area -- that has better swimming and more facilities for hanging out in the shade, with hammocks and tables and chairs for dining on somewhat decaying pavement. Non-guests can also use day-passes to this beach, so it can see a crowd depending on the day. The vegetation surrounding both beach areas has dried up over the years due to drought conditions, which is unfortunate for the hotel, as bare trees add to a somewhat past-its-prime look. 

There are several pools on the grounds. The biggest and best one for all ages is located in Playa Mantas with a large adult and kids' sections, fountains, and a bar and restaurant with music. There are blue and white sun loungers and a great deal of space to spread out. The Selvamar’s pool is closer in location to Standard and Superior rooms, but it is small and right next to the buffet making, which takes away from the peace and quiet that it should have. Other apartment sections have their own outdoor pools -- the Leonamar infinity pool, in particular, is a secret gem for those who feel motivated to get up the hill. 

Guests receive a schedule of daily activities at the start of their vacation with specific times for things like face-painting, beach volleyball, aqua gym, treasure hunts, ping pong tournaments, mini-water polo, and darts tournaments. There is also a mini-golf course and butterfly farm, free of charge. Water sports are available to rent, like boogie boards and kayaks. Scuba diving certification and dives can be arranged. Several guided walking tours (offered every day but Tuesday) visit flora and fauna around the large grounds and have to be booked in advance. Trail maps are available at the hotel front desk for those who want to do it on their own.

Evening entertainment takes place near the main pool in the form of disco, dance, and karaoke. 

Wi-Fi is available for free, but it is unreliable in certain areas. 

Most guests -- meaning those in the Standard and Superior rooms -- will dine at the Carabelas Restaurant's tropical open-air setting for buffet-style meals. Breakfast is automatically included in the rate, and there is an option to upgrade to the all-inclusive plan, which is a good idea due to the hotel's remote location. The food is consistent with great salads and main courses, and some daily variations; for instance, Saturdays is Costa Rica night. Other lunch options on the property include Leon Marino, next to the main outdoor pool, for snacks and light food (Fridays and Saturdays it serves dinner, too.)  Next to the white sand beach is a large snack bar with soup, salads, fruits and vegetables, main dishes, desserts, and non-alcoholic beverages. For a more romantic meal (not on the package), couples can dine at the Grill Restaurant with gourmet à la carte fare. Reservations are required. 

Guests staying in apartments can shop for basics at the on-site market, but it has limited hours. Another market with later hours and more selection can be reached a few miles from the main entrance on Highway 34.