Hotel Casa Chameleon Mal Pais

Guests might be surprised at the ruggedness of the hotel's driveway -- although, considering they have already experienced the area's notorious gravel roads, maybe not too shocked. The steep (and yes, gravely) hill makes its way up to the property to a rather a small parking lot where staff will come out to greet guests and lead the way to the main reception area past swinging doors. Everything besides the villas is open-air, including the reception area, which is also the manager's office decorated with a beautiful desk and Persian rug, with blue ocean in the distance. The manager is often present working from here, and he's intentionally in-sight and approachable -- one of the benefits of this small property. Guests are offered a glass of juice during the check-in process and then taken to the villas via boardwalk-style walking pathways, which (for some) turn to flagstone paths and stairs. The entire property is surrounded with lush vegetation, with the occasional exotic bird sighting or howler monkey making calls in the distance. The small but mighty staff provides prompt, personalized service, which can be felt when entering the lounge or restaurant -- both chic, romantic yet laid-back in an impossibly cool Costa-Rican way. Guests (kids aren't allowed) are practically always couples -- many who are celebrating honeymoons -- and during the day one or two duos might be using the shared pool near the lounge, and ordering lunch. Breakfast and dinner can be ordered at the restaurant -- the highest point on the property -- or in the privacy of the villas. Between this and the ample outdoorsy activities in the area, the hotel has a peaceful atmosphere where it is entirely impossible to feel like you have the whole place to yourself. This being said, there are opportunities for couples to mix and mingle, made less awkward by the staff (especially the chef) who are naturals at bringing everyone together. 

Hotel Casa Chameleon is located on a steep, lush hillside on the very southwestern tip of Nicoya Penisula. This is not an easy place to get to, but it is worth it for those seeking authentic Costa Rica. The difficulty in arriving deters most conventional tourists in favor of paved roads and bigger resorts, say in commercialized Tamarindo or Jaco. Roads in this part of the peninsula -- a common conversation piece -- are dirt and gravel with some deep, jarring potholes, which really pick up the dust in dry season. Some love it, some do not, but make no mistake, this is one of the area's defining characteristics, which might take some getting used to. Guests will want a 4x4, ATV, or bicycles to get around -- all preferred by the locals -- and there are several activities within easy reach. Surfing taking front and center stage. In fact, this is the hottest spot in the country for international surfers, and there are excellent surf schools and camps within a few miles from the hotel. The town of Santa Teresa, with cool bars and restaurants, is a five-minute drive away, which attracts good-looking expats from all over the world. Non-surfers need not worry as there are plenty of other activities like snorkeling, diving, ATV, and wildlife tours. For a less strenuous activity, simply park at one of the wide beaches, take a swim in the warm ocean, and then crack open a beer at sunset while watching the surfers do their thing. There are several terrific restaurants in Mal Pais and Santa Teresa, just minutes away from the hotel.Visitors can arrive via a multitude of ways -- and no one way seems easier than the next. One option is to arrive to Liberia International Airport, rent a vehicle, and make the five-hour drive through a mix of paved and rough roads. Another option (perhaps the best one) is to take a commuter plane from Liberia or San Jose to the smaller Tambor Airport, and then a 45-minute taxi to the hotel. Once in town, rent an ATV for the duration of the trip. Other options include a ferry from the main land to Tambor, though ferry times are not always reliable. Another ferry makes rounds between Jaco and Montezuma, which is a great option for those looking to check out a few different parts of the country. 

The hotel consists of 10 standalone villas, all intimate, individually decorated, and completely private from one another. They were built around the property to maximize ocean views while blending in with tropical surroundings. Views reflect this, especially from outdoor spaces with private plunge pools, hammocks, and tables for dining with occasional Toucan sightings. Interiors feature natural elements like teak and tamarindo wood, Travertine stone tiles, and thoughtful, arty details like mask sculptures and wood-framed mirrors. They have king-size beds, air-conditioning, iPod docks, coffee/tea makers, and minibars stocked with water, soda, beer, and juice. Sleek bathrooms feature rainfall showerheads and organic bath products in eco-friendly containers. Three honeymoon suites are another step up in terms of luxury. Villa Estella, for instance, is one of the newer additions with a larger infinity swimming pool, and the spacious bathroom has double-vanity sinks and an indoor/outdoor shower. Some units, like this one, are a bit of an upward hike via stairs back to the hub of the resort.

One major downside is that this property isn't on the beach. Instead of on the sand, guests here tend to relax (many are honeymooners) and take advantage of the pools in their villas or -- for a change of pace -- the shared kidney-shaped pool and small waterfall near the lounge. This has bright blue cushioned lounge chairs set up for two, with ocean views in the distance. There are umbrellas here for shade, and drink and lunch service can be served poolside. A bathroom is available here as well so guests do not have to trek back to the villa.The front office next to the parking lot has some tour and activity information. Staff members can arrange ATV rentals and in-room massages, as well as provide local advice and recommendations. Parking is free and some spots are shaded from the sun. Wi-Fi is free throughout and does not require a password. 

The understated and yet tastefully decorated lounge area has purple and red hues, with a "LOVE" message on the most prominent table. There is sexy lounge music playing here that blends well with rustling tropical plants that naturally peek into view, all around. Smoothies, juices, coffee, wine, beer, and cocktails can be ordered here, poolside, or from the villas.Healthy, high-quality cuisine at Casa Chameleon is a highlight, and the team uses locally-sourced products as often as possible. The interactive chef is personable and gets to know the guests. He tweaks meals and creates special presentations. The restaurant is the highest point of the property, up a set of stairs where there are tables with a view, a few tables inside, and a handful of bar stools facing the open-style kitchen for interactive displays. Breakfast is served either in the restaurant or in the villas; lunch is in the pool lounge area; and dinner is reservation only, with a menu that changes daily based on what is fresh -- much of it centered around seafood and produce. Though couples tend to stick to themselves, every Wednesday is an optional chance to join together and eat family style. Half board and full board meal plans are available and must be pre-paid. Meals served in villas will incur an extra charge.