Blue River Resort & Hot Springs

Literally in the middle of nowhere, Blue River Resort & Hot Springs is a secluded mountain retreat. After a long, bumpy ride to the resort, guests are greeted by a shanty farmhouse and a hand-painted sign denoting the property’s entrance. Past the farmhouse, the property opens up to reveal horse stables, hot spring pools, guest rooms, and the restaurant. This main part of the property is fairly compact and easy to walk around. Activities such as horseback riding, zip-lining, hiking, and tubing all take place in the surrounding mountains, which can be seen from the property on clear days. 

Guests at Blue River are typically families with kids, but adventurous couples and friend groups round out the crowd. Most guests choose to stay at Blue River for a few days, and continue their vacation elsewhere in Guanacaste. Although there’s plenty to do at Blue River, some travelers find the secluded location, one restaurant, and lack of civilization a bit boring after a few days.    

The trek to Blue River is not an easy one and road conditions are poor. Depending on the season, roads are either slick with mud or dry and rocky, making for an incredibly bumpy ride. Though travelers can drive themselves, it’s best to leave transportation to locals who know how to handle the road conditions. If you do decide to drive, you’ll want an SUV and plenty of daylight hours. Also be sure to double the number of hours Google Maps suggests it’ll take to reach Blue River, as you’ll likely be driving at 20 kilometers per hour for a good part of the trip. Once up in the mountains, there should be a sign for Blue River about every 10 kilometers. 

Don’t let the roads to Blue River scare you away, though. Any mountain resort in Costa Rica will likely require a similar trek. Thanks to the hotel's serene setting, the Costa Rican penchant for “Pura Vida,” or “Pure Life” can really be felt around Blue River. The scenery is lush, wild animals roam free, and the lack of light pollution means near total darkness at nighttime. But, this seclusion can be a bit stifling after a few days for some guests. The hotel is roughly two hours (strong emphasis on the word roughly) from both Liberia Airport in Guanacaste, and the Nicaraguan border.  

For those who are wondering, yes, there is actually a blue river. Although its official name is Rio Penjamo, most locals affectionately refer to it as Rio Azul. The bright, crystalline color of the water comes from the volcanic minerals that flow through it. The color of the river changes daily, but tends to be brighter blue during the dry season, when there’s no rain to wash the mineral sediments away.  

Log cabin structures with front porches and hammocks, rooms at Blue River have a Disneyland-like rustic feel about them, in that they only look rustic. Once inside, cabins have all the modern comforts of home, including air-conditioning, flat-screen TVs, mini-fridges, coffeemakers, and showers with hot water and strong pressure. Unfortunately, there’s no in-room Wi-Fi. 

Room decor is simple and cabin-like, featuring knotty, wood-planked walls, floors, and ceilings. Rooms have a cozy feel and cathedral ceilings keep spaces from feeling dark and cramped. They're equipped with either one king-size or two queen-size beds, and all generally look the same. Beds are simple, low-to-the-ground pieces of furniture covered in thick brown quilts. There is also a table and chair set, the size of which makes it look like it was built for kindergarteners. Bathrooms are spacious, but don’t expect any luxury finishes. There are a large walk-in shower (but no tub), tiled vanity, and a separate water closet. Eco-friendly practices such as conserving water and not flushing toilet paper are encouraged. 

Guests are attracted to Blue River for the many outdoor activities available. Excursions such as hiking the base of Rincon de La Vieja, horseback riding through the Blue River, swimming in waterfalls and natural pools, zip-lining, tubing, whitewater rafting, and bird-watching can all be arranged at the hotel, and are done somewhere in the surrounding mountains. Trained hotel staffers accompany guests on all excursions. Blue River also accommodates daytime guests. Advanced booking is required, for guests and non-guests alike.   

Along with excursions, Blue River is known for its on-site hot spring and thermal pools. The property sits above volcanic hot springs, which the hotel pumps from a natural well into four man-made pools. The circular pools are arranged in the center of the property, and vary in temperatures ranging from hot, to really hot, to near boiling. The minerals from the water are said to have healing powers for the skin and joints. The natural color of the water is an earthy green, which isn’t the most appealing color to see in a pool. While perhaps not the prettiest, the natural pools are well cared for and clean. Next to the natural pools are the hotel’s two medium-size freshwater pools, one of which has a waterslide. All of the pools are completely surrounded by lush, tropical foliage -- giving the pool area a jungle feel. 

The hot springs aren’t only used for pools; they’re also incorporated into a natural, do-it-yourself spa treatment that’s free for all guests. Inside the property’s botanical garden, small wooden saunas sit atop holes in the ground where steam rises from the hot springs, creating a natural steam room. Guests are encouraged to sit in the steam room for 10 minutes, apply cold volcanic mud to their skin, let the mud harden, rinse off in the outdoor shower, and then spend at least 15 minutes in one of the thermal pools. The process is supposed to open the pores of the skin to allow the minerals from the volcanic mud and the thermal pools to better seep into the body, and therefore have more profound healing affects. Obviously we had to test this theory during our stay (sorry, no photo evidence; DSLR cameras and volcanic mud aren’t a good mix). While it was certainly a fun experience, we can’t say we felt 10 years younger afterwards (as promised by the hotel). The only downside of the property’s multiple hot springs is the sulfuric smell that sometimes emerges from them.  

Another one of Blue River’s attractions is its on-site botanical garden and butterfly habitat, which is free for guests. The area is filled with tropical plants, trees, and well, lots of butterflies. For those seeking a taste of "Jurassic Park," there's Dino Park, a jungle area filled with life-size dinosaur figures that move. 

Blue River also has a small spa and a fitness center, but both are seriously dated and could use some upgrades. Spa treatment rooms are directly next to the fitness center, and don’t feel secluded or tranquil. The gym is a small room packed to the brim with outdated equipment.

There is only one restaurant at Blue River, and therefore guests’ only dining option during their stay. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and breakfast is included in the room rate. The food is fairly mediocre, but the menu is varied enough to keep things from getting too repetitive. The restaurant is also the only place on the property with Wi-Fi, and where most guest hang out at night.