Barcelo Tambor

This Spain-based company -- with more than 100 properties -- was the first (and only) major player to show up in this part of Nicoya Peninsula (and still is). It was, in fact, the first all-inclusive resort in the entire country. Albeit a source of controversy for locals, Barcelo did create jobs and bring tourism in Tambor, which now features a small airport and ferry from Puntarenas. Notorious rough gravel roads magically turn paved near the hotel, leading to a long driveway lined with international flags and a security guard. From here, though, the welcome may stop short for weary travelers, especially when pulling into an empty turnaround driveway and having to self-haul luggage toward the lobby. If it's past five o'clock, the front desk staff might relay such inhospitable information that a beach towel will have to wait for the morning (towel hours are limited), or that it's too late to make a reservation for either of the a la carte restaurants (that's done in the morning, and even then, it's not easy). Despite shortcomings with the front-of-house, the open-air lobby is a grand space with lounge areas that turn low-lit at night. There are walking paths -- potentially long ones -- on either side to the rooms, though numbers are not well marked, causing some confusion. The sprawling property is attractive enough, and guests can wander through well-tended tropical grounds and check out the beach's volcanic sand, with scenic green hills in the distance. Watching the sunrise while howler monkeys call out makes for a true Costa Rica moment. Meals typically take place in the buffet area next to the pools, meanwhile the spa, fitness center, and bird park on the other side seem hardly touched. Renovations took place in 2012 after an earthquake, but certain areas still feel jaded, as do some of the staff. Then again, there are rays of fresh hope, like the Japanese restaurant that carries an enthusiastic buzz -- perhaps the single best thing in the resort. Overall, in a place inundated with small family-run hotels, Barcelo stands apart for being the only major resort for many miles in any direction.

With big name resorts in Guanacaste and Jaco, this Barcelo property is unusually off-the-grid on the southeastern tip of Nicoya Penisula -- a wildly beautiful and underdeveloped part of Costa Rica with rolling mountains, exotic birds, and howler monkeys. The resort sits alone, neighborless, along a large horseshoe-shaped bay called the Bahia Ballena (translation: whale bay). Past volcanic activity has created a wide stretch of gray-colored sand, which slopes into the bay for dramatic low tides -- not only safe for kids, but also quite enjoyable for long walks and swims. Outside of the hotel there are very few options for restaurants and nightlife. Most guests choose to stay within Barcelo's perimeters for their entire vacation to take full advantage of their all-inclusive rates. Those looking to explore the area, though, can taxi to Montezuma (35 minutes away) or Santa Teresa (an hour away) for surfing culture and action, though these aren't tourist towns. Another daytime excursion is Tortuga Island for diving and snorkeling, 15 minutes away by boat.The best way to arrive to the resort is to take a commuter plane from Liberia or San Jose International Airport into the smaller Tambor Airport, and then a 10-minute taxi to the hotel. This is the most expensive way, but also the most convenient. Another cheaper option is the five-hour shuttle from Liberia International Airport, or the five-hour shuttle and ferry from San Jose. The hotel can handle arrangements, which will be shared with others, so times are limited and may require late arrivals and early departures. For those that rent a car, parking at the resort is free. 

Barcelo has 402 rooms (three types) situated in attractive red-and-white two-story buildings accessible via stairs. These are spread across lush manicured grounds with meandering pathways that are not exactly well marked, but at least well lit at night. Renovations brought in fresh white linens and pale green accent walls, but patterned drapes and furnishings still look generic and outdated. All rooms have balconies or patios (some have hammocks) with ocean or garden views and semi-private lattice barriers that separate neighbors. They also have LCD TVs, coffeemakers, and bathrooms with tub/shower combos. Included in the room rate are stocked minibars, with a can of Pringles, two beers, two waters, and two sodas. Refills on a daily basis are inconsistent though, and may require a call, especially for more bottled water. The Master Suite is the highest category and features a separate living room and bedroom. (There are two bedroom options as well.) These also come with bathrobes. Past guests have complained about maintenance issues like lack of hot water and leaky mini-fridges. 

The resort sits between a valley and a horseshoe bay with natural, undeveloped views in all directions. The beach is populated pretty much only by Barcelo guests, save for an occasional local, so there's ample space to spread out on lounge chairs in the sun or under shade from palm trees. It's a great beach to walk up and down, especially at sunrise, and even more so when the tide is out. As for swimming, the water is calm near the shore, and there are steady waves farther out that can be fun for experienced swimmers and boogie boarders. Next to the beach are two large swimming pools separated by a path with easy walking access to the Ron Ron bar. The entire pool area is surrounded by lounge chairs, and it doesn't seem to get crowded enough so that guests have to come early to reserve spots. Next to this area is a separate family pool for the little ones, which has five giant palm tree fountains spouting water. Water sports are limited, but guests can use kayaks and boogie boards.  Behind the property is a hidden nature area with archery, exercise activities, and a bird park. Follow the trails and find spacious cages that are home to several colorful parrots, and even a peacock or two. This area can be found behind a casual spa and fitness center with a separate outdoor pool -- an alternative for those seeking some peace and quiet. The fitness center includes free weights, cardio machines, and a flat-screen TV. There's a mini-fridge with sports drinks and bottled water. Other activities include three tennis courts, two multi-use courts, a soccer field, giant chessboard, ping-pong, and billiards. Kids between the ages of 4 and 12 can take part in an animation program, and teens 13 to 17 years old have a room with games, computers, and music. By the beach, there is a mini-golf course and trampoline.The amphitheater seats up to 200 people for a show by the animation team every night except when the resort is at low capacity, as was the case during our visit. Typically, after the show ends, the lobby bar tends to shut down. Late night guests can head over to the steakhouse which turns into a dance floor with music. National drinks are served here until after midnight.Guests pay a daily fee for Wi-Fi, and the connection may not be reliable, especially from the rooms. 

Barcelo is not a chain that's associated with top quality food and beverage, but the hotel has three decent restaurants and a snack bar. The main buffet is called El Tucan in a large open-air space next to the pool, which serves standard buffet spreads for breakfast, lunch, and dinner -- and yes, these buffets have similar offerings day-to-day. Tables closest to the dining room edge should beware of iguanas and squirrels who unabashedly come up to the table and steal food. Next to the swimming pool -- open between breakfast and dinner -- is a snack bar serving casual food like hamburgers, pizza, hot dogs, fruit, and simple salad. Guests have limited all-inclusive access to two a la carte restaurants, but reservations through the staff aren't easy to make. The best of the two is Miyako Japanese Restaurant specializing in contemporary Japanese food. This is an air-conditioned restaurant with an open kitchen and sushi chef, and the vibe here is more fun and energetic than other dining outlets. El Rancho Steak House is a steakhouse serving gourmet meat and seafood entrees in a romantic setting near the beach. Reservations seem easier to get here than the sushi restaurant.