Quiet, convenient location in the heart of scenic Riomaggiore
Near the train station, ferry dock, and the area's hiking trails
Functional, affordable one-bedroom apartments with kitchenettes
Units offer flat-screen TVs and incredible vistas out to the water
Private outdoor spaces offering dramatic views of the sea and village
Owned by a knowledgeable husband-and-wife team
No common areas, meal service or other hotel-like features
No Wi-Fi in either unit
Lots of stairs and no elevators (which can make hauling luggage hard)
One apartment's terrace is reached via an external staircase
The lower-middle-range Mar-Mar is a two-unit, apartment-style option in Riomaggiore, where rows of ancient buildings painted in Crayola-box colors seem to spill down a steep hillside into the sea. Aimed at couples or solo travelers who value their independence, its bright yet basic offerings are adequately equipped with comfy beds and kitchenettes. Their location, however, is the main draw. Although housed in different buildings, each overlooks the Ligurian Sea (an arm of the Mediterranean) and delivers a postcard-worthy view of the water and village below. Moreover, the train station, ferry dock, and hiking trails are all within walking distance, making this a great base for exploring the rest of the region, too. Travelers who want a kitchenette but don’t want to sacrifice Wi-Fi, private parking, and other hotel-like perks can book a suite at the three-pearl Cinqueterre Residence instead.
Disclaimer: This content was accurate at the time the hotel was reviewed. Please check our partner sites when booking to verify that details are still correct.
Scene
Basic apartments in classic buildings overlooking a port that has become a postcard staple
Mar-Mar is not a hotel per se but rather a pair of independent apartments (Babo and Punta) located in two of the tall, traditional hillside buildings which overlook Riomaggiore's dramatic waterfront. As a result, it has no common areas or even a dedicated reception desk. Guests simply check in at the Bar O’Netto (next to La Lampara restaurant, a mere two-minute walk from the train station), and then are led to the appropriate apartment. Since both are self-catering units with only one bed, they attract DIY vacationers who appreciate sigh-inducing sea views -- and are able to handle plenty of steep stairs.
Location
Centrally situated in camera-ready Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre’s southernmost village
Mar-Mar is located in lovely Riomaggiore. Traveling north from La Spezia, this is the first of Cinque Terre’s five fabled villages. A fishing port (and tourist magnet), its centuries-old center is a labyrinth of shops, bars and restaurants. Both Mar-Mar apartments are right in the thick of this, within walking distance to historic sites like the Church of San Giovanni Battista and the Castle of Riomaggiore, both about a four-minute stroll. Fossola Beach can also be reached on foot in seven minutes, and energetic visitors can take advantage of hiking trails that connect the Cinque Terre’s photogenic quintet of communities. These can be easily explored via local trains and ferries as well. Travelers should note that Riomaggiore, like its sister villages, is pedestrian-only. That means cars must be left on the outskirts, where parking is costly and hard to come by. For guests flying into the area, the nearest airports are Pisa International (an 80-minute drive) and Genoa Cristoforo Colombo (which is a two-hour trip).
Rooms
Down-to-earth apartments with eye-popping views -- but no Wi-Fi
Owners Mario and Marzia set out to provide “comfortable accommodations at reasonable prices” and these two apartments -- Babo and Punta -- prove they succeeded. Housed in traditional Ligurian buildings, each is plain but appealing. Babo’s double bedroom for instance, combines vintage prints with contemporary pine pieces; and its little living room has wicker armchairs plus a wooden table with classic cane-bottom chairs where guests can dine on meals they have prepared themselves in the galley kitchen. Off it, a serviceable white-tile bathroom includes a pedestal sink and narrow shower stall as well as a toilet and bidet. Punta shares a similar look but a different layout: for starters, the kitchenette is incorporated into the living area (which in this case also features a couch); moreover, both that room and the queen bedroom open onto a furnished balcony with sweeping sea and village views. This is an important distinction because Babo’s terrace, though pretty and private, can only be accessed by leaving the apartment and climbing a flight of stairs. Note that while the apartments do have some modern conveniences -- namely flat-screen TVs, ranges, and small refrigerators -- they do not offer Wi-Fi.
Features
Come for the view because features are few.
Some properties are better defined by what they don’t have, and such is the case here. Mar-Mar doesn’t have a restaurant or recreational facilities; in fact, its apartments don’t even have elevators. Wi-Fi can also be crossed off the list, although this can be accessed for free at nearby Bar O'Netto (which doubles as the check-in point). Everything else Mar-Mar offers is contained in its apartment units, aside from the husband-and-wife owners. While they don’t act as official concierges, they know the area intimately and are a valuable resource.
