Sallés Hotel & Spa Cala del Pi

Salles Hotel & Spa makes a regal first impression. Inside, the lobby has marble counters and checkerboard marble floors, and in the public spaces and hallways, mottled ocre walls and orange ceramic tile reflect the Costa Brava sun. Despite the warm colors, all the hard surfaces -- marble, stone, ceramic -- can feel a bit cold, making the exterior spaces more comfortable places to be. Families tend to spend a lot of time by the outdoor pool, especially as one of its three sections is designed for young children (and the spa’s indoor pool is off limits to guests under 16 for most of the day). Though a luxury hotel, the Salles Hotel & Spa Cala del Pi misses a note or two: guests fetch their own coffee at breakfast, and the furniture in the guest rooms is on the stuffy side. The spa is truly world-class, though, so guests who rank that high on the must-have list tend to be happy here. For others, especially travelers with children, a larger resort in a livelier area, such as the Vistabella in Roses, may be preferable.

The Salles Hotel & Spa Cala del Pi overlooks a small cove -- the Cala del Pi -- on the Costa Brava, just north of the uninspiring town of Platja d’Aro. It’s a five-minute drive into town, where there are plenty of shops and dining options, including several one-star Michelin restaurants. By car it’s 25 minutes to the chic Costa Brava town of Begur, 27 minutes to sweet, family-friendly Tamariu and its expansive white beach, and an hour and 20 minutes to Barcelona. It’s about a 30-minute drive to Girona–Costa Brava Airport. It’s also possible to take the bus from the airport, but it’s a two-hour trip that requires a transfer and a taxi from the Platja d’Aro bus station.

The rooms at the Salles Hotel & Spa Cala del Pi are spacious -- 280 square feet for a standard room up to 485 square feet for a suite -- and well equipped. Color schemes vary but include cream walls and furniture offset by accents in gray, ocre, or deep red. The furniture itself is sturdy but a bit stiff, with Louis XV chairs and cabriole-leg desks adding the the rooms elegance, but detracting from its comfort. Each includes a bed with luxurious, crisp white linens and a chest of drawers. Minibars are tucked into small cabinets, but while some rooms have Nespresso coffeemakers, others do not. All rooms come with fine bathrobes and slippers, and a pillow menu is complimentary. Amenities also include small programmable safes and free Wi-Fi. Most rooms have terraces or balconies, many with sea views and loungers. The family-room configuration includes two adjoining rooms, each with its own bathroom and balcony. Note that some guests complain of thin walls, especially in the adjoining rooms. Bathrooms are marble and ceramic tile, with luxe toiletries (including razor and toothbrush), high-quality towels, and a good hairdryer. Some have a 16-jet hydromassage shower for two people and a hydromassage tub, some just have the shower. 

Easily the Salles Hotel & Spa Cala del Pi’s top feature is its excellent spa, which has a full menu of spa services. It has a large indoor pool with waterfalls, Finnish sauna, whirlpool, hammam, therapeutic showers, ice cave, salt bath, and more. The spa’s pool is accessible to guests under 16 only two hours per day, so the outdoor pool is where families gather in season. It’s on the small side and divided into three sections, including one for very young children, and surrounded by cushy loungers with personal shades. Bar and towel service is available. The beach below the hotel is open to the public (as are all beaches in Spain) and quite small, so it can become uncomfortably crowded, and no shade is available. Rosa dels Vents, the hotel restaurant, is quite good and quite expensive. The free breakfast, served buffet style overlooking the Mediterranean, is generous and fresh, with eggs, sausages, bacon, pastries, and fruit. But guests complain about the self-serve coffee machines, which require choosing a capsule and waiting for it to brew. The hotel has a kids' club for children, a fun room with art supplies, toys, and DVDs. Free parking and free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel are additional perks.