Hotel Carmen

Before it was the Hotel Carmen, this simple yet charming property on a narrow, cobblestone street in Roses' oldest section was three fishing cottages. The exterior is white masonry with wrought-iron balconies. The lobby is small with tile floors, plaster walls adorned with paintings and murals by local artists, armchairs upholstered in blue cotton, and floor lamps. Off the lobby is a bar and restaurant with windows that look out on a sunny terrace. The bar has a curved mahogany counter with a red-tile front and black-leather and iron bar stools. There are red, wrought-iron pedestal tables topped with marble, and black, Thonet-style chairs in the restaurant. Open circle, pale-blue pendant fixtures add light on gray days. The hallways have white plaster walls, and trim and doors are a honey-toned wood. Most guests are European, and many remember the Costa Brava of 30 or 50 years ago, and say they appreciate how the Carmen reflects this earlier time. Modern touches have been added with a light hand: a contemporary fixture here or a piece of abstract art there. While the bar and terrace are pretty, there's no real spot to take in the spectacular sea views from the common areas. 

The Hotel Carmen is in the oldest section of Roses, an area of narrow alleys, bars, and restaurants, which is a five-minute walk to the beach. The town center of Roses, with its shops, bars, and a market (useful for stocking in-room mini-fridges), is also about a five-minute walk from the hotel. The Roses Citadel, a historic fortification, is an 11-minute walk away. A car is recommended for guests who want to explore the area, although there is some bus service along the coastal road to Cadaques -- worth a visit for its web of steep narrow streets, artists' ambience, and the Casa-Museu Salvador Dali (the artist's home, now a museum). The hotel is a five-minute drive to the Aqua Brava, a big waterpark. The Port of Roses is a nine-minute drive. The nature-park resort of Cala Montjoi is a 29-minute drive. It's a 31-minute drive to the Dali Theater and Museum in Figueres, and 32 minutes by car to Sant Pere de Rodes. The Catalonian range, Montgri Massif, is a 48-minute drive. To reach the Medes Islands, a group of seven islets, takes 54 minutes by car. The Girona-Costa Brava Airport is a 54-minute drive, and Barcelona El-Prat Airport is two hours and 15 minutes away.

The Hotel Carmen's 24 rooms are somewhat spartan, but they evoke the Mediterranean, and vary considerably in size. They have white walls with color-washed accent walls; honey-hued wood trim, doors, and closets; and glazed terra-cotta floors with woven mats. Larger rooms have slip-covered ottomans and sofas in bright or white canvas. Beds, in white linen with ergonomic mattresses, are sometimes flush with the wall where a rectangular pane of glass, mounted on the plaster and flanked by pin-up lights, serves as an attractive headboard. Several rooms have balconies, ranging from narrow ledges with just enough space for chairs and tiny tables to broad spaces that are large enough for woven loungers, patio sets, and outdoor rainfall showers -- all with roof-top views. All rooms have double-glazed windows assuring quiet, but in lower-priced rooms, the windows can be small squares offering limited light and views. Amenities include air-conditioning, free Wi-Fi, flat screen TVs with satellite channels, mini-fridges, and laptop-size safes, along with free mineral water. Higher-priced rooms add robes and slippers. Bathrooms range from relatively small with pan-type showers to wedge-shaped whirlpools with bidets. Floors are tile, and the fixtures and fittings, including heated towel bars, are up to date. One nice touch are the L'Occitane toiletries. Hairdryers are also provided. 

The modest Carmen Hotel manages to pack in nice amenities that guests routinely praise, such as the free breakfast buffet, which includes eggs cooked to order, fresh fruit, regional hams and cheeses, cakes, brown breads, and croissants. There is an espresso machine and a machine to steam milk at the bar. Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel, along with newspapers, and coffee, tea, and water. The bar serves drinks and light snacks. One notable feature that's missing at the property is a pool, which most other budget hotels in the area provide. Most guests make do by walking five minutes to the nearest beach. The front desk is staffed 24 hours a day and offers car and bike rentals, currency exchange, free luggage storage, and a safe. Laundry and dry cleaning services are offered for a fee. Parking, for a fee, is available about a five-minute walk from the hotel -- guests recommend dropping off bags at the hotel first before parking the car. Airport transfers, for a fee, can also be arranged.