Captain Morgan's Retreat

Captain Morgan’s is a sprawling resort -- at least in terms of what's available on Ambergris Caye -- with a rustic heart. Villa and condo buildings are concrete, but sided in woven palmetto leaves that make for a shaggy, lost-in-paradise look. It's an effect that reaches throughout the property, creating a social vibe that stays fairly low key. The resort’s central pool and next-door bar have an oversized flat-screen TV and where guests -- mostly mature couples that may or may not be Harley Davidson enthusiasts -- relax in rattan chairs and couches with plush red cushions. Interiors are a mixed bag, an issue that does plague this resort throughout. The resort’s scrappy lobby could use an update -- its bamboo couches double as storage for dusty boxes, though the resort’s grounds are beachy and natural, with palm trees, manicured greenery, and white sand. The property’s far enough from town to feel secluded, and at night the skies glitter with stars. A long dock extends into the ocean where the resort’s boats dock and water taxis stop on their way to San Pedro Town. 

With its waterfront location a 15-minute drive north of San Pedro town, Captain Morgan’s Retreat strikes a healthy balance between beach and bustle. In town, grocery stores, restaurants, and shops fill the streets. A movie theater that plays first-run films is a 10-minute drive from the resort (but only open on weekends). Closer to Captain Morgan’s are a handful of restaurants ranging from tapas, to Belizean, to international cuisines. Guests rave about the island’s best beach -- Secret Beach -- which is a bumpy 30-minute drive from the property. Alternatively, great snorkeling is a 10-minute paddle from the resort to the island’s barrier reef. San Pedro Airport will take 20 minutes to reach by car.

Unlike traditional hotels that cluster guest rooms in a single building, Captain Morgan’s condos and villas are spread across its sandy, oceanfront property. Condos on the resort’s north end are more modern and done with attractive beachy accents. Interiors differ in these units, as each are individually owned -- some have poster beds and vaulted ceilings, while others have shabby-chic dressers and balcony whirlpools. All have full kitchens with granite counters and mahogany floors. Other condo features include washing machines and driers, outdoor whirlpools, and built-in grills. The villas on the resort’s southern side have thatched roofs and are rustic, but dated. Interiors differ from unit to unit. Some have from kitchenettes and furniture made of woven banana leaves while others feature full kitchens and wicker couches. Bathrooms have beautiful touches like Mexican Talavera sinks with painted sunflowers and stand-up showers with glass bricks and river stones. Shampoo, bar soap, and hairdryers are standard in all units. All units have lock boxes, air-conditioning, and flat-screen TVs. Irons are available upon request. Some rooms near the central pool have Wi-Fi, otherwise there’s no Wi-Fi inside the villas or condos. 

With three freshwater pools next to its 1,000-foot long beach, amenities at Captain Morgan’s seem fixate on water. Two of the pools have swim-up bars and the third pool’s zero-entry is perfect for families with small children. The wide beach is full of cushioned lounge chairs and hammocks slung between shady palms. It's worth noting that sea grass in this area can be bad, making swimming a challenge at time, and much of the shoreline is taken up by a sea wall. Beach activities like corn hole, volleyball, and shuffleboard are available, and kayaks are free, though quantities are limited. It’s also possible to rent Jet Skis and go parasailing. Beach towels are available for a deposit. Alternatively, the Sundari Spa offers services from its oceanfront building. Bueno Vista Restaurant, located next to the lobby and middle pool, serves three meals a day and is decorated a Mayan- and Caribbean-inspired decor. Think: carved Mayan mask totem poles and paintings of island scenes in bright orange, red, and yellow. Every Tuesday is a Belizean buffet and on Sundays the hotel serves a free buffet dinner. Food overall receives mixed reviews. Next to the restaurant, the outdoor bar overlooks the pool with rattan chairs and and is little rundown, with dirty and worn red couches. In the lobby, computer workstations with free printing are set up next to the hotel’s tour desk. The hotel arranges snorkeling and diving excursions, and adventures further afield like trips to Mayan ruins on mainland Belize. They also rent bicycles and golf carts. Unlike many other island resorts, Captain Morgan’s does not provide free round-trip airport transportation. There’s an on-site grocery store and gift shop (although the selection is much better in town), and the casino on-site can be underwhelming. The hotel has a self-service laundromat, and laundry service is also available. The resort offers free local calls (a fee for cell numbers) and free Wi-Fi, though it can be spotty.