Phranakorn-Nornlen Hotel

This hotel feels miles away from downtown Bangkok and has a bespoke vibe from top to bottom. A sign bearing the hotel’s name in mismatched letters is the first clue about what’s inside. The second clue: the display of small, kitschy dioramas recreate Thai street scenes. Beyond that, the hotel opens onto an outdoor courtyard that comprises most of the hotel’s common space. The area is filled with plants and overlaid with a covered terrace and plenty of comfortable, quilted seating --it’s an ideal place to relax over tea or coffee. Almost every surface inside the hotel is covered in paintings, from trompe l’oeil bookshelves to country landscapes, and each floor has a small seating area filled with reclaimed household items. The rooftop bar has a vintage appeal, with checkerboard floors, old-school leather couches, and nice views from the outdoor terrace of Intharawihan Temple’s famous giant Buddha statue. Guests here are predominantly tourists and range from individuals to couples and families.

In a quiet alley off of a nondescript street in a mostly residential part of Bangkok, this hotel sits within the central Phra Nakhon district of Bangkok, home to many of the city’s historic sights. That being said, there isn’t much to see in the surrounding blocks, though Intharawihan Temple is a seven-minute walk around the block and contains one of the tallest Buddha sculptures in all of Thailand. Just 10 minutes' walk from the hotel is the Chao Phraya River, where river ferries can be boarded to reach the Grand Palace area and its surrounding temples in about 15 minutes. Khaosan Road, a mecca for backpackers that's crammed with neon nightlife, is 10 minutes away by taxi or tuk-tuk, and Suvarnabhumi Airport can be reached in 30 to 40 minutes by cab.

The hotel’s quirky aesthetic extends to its guest rooms, each of which has its own hand-painted motif, reclaimed wood panels, handmade tables, and quilted bed linens and curtains. Yes, there are TVs, but they don't work -- because they're several decades old and serve as vintage-chic nightstands. Rooms aren’t particularly large, but they feel breezy and have ceiling fans and air-conditioning, free bottled water, nighttime tea service, and wall-mounted CD players that play a customized collection of Thai songs. The hotel has a wide array of room sizes, some of which can accommodate families, and several rooms have small stone balconies. Single, Double, and Twin Rooms have comfortable queen or king-size beds, while Connect Rooms have two separate sleeping areas, including a romantic sleeping alcove with colorfully embroidered pillows. Each room has an en-suite bathroom, though guests should keep in mind that they're wet rooms, meaning that showers are not walled or curtained off and floors (and often the toilets and sinks, as well) will be wet after showering. That being said, bathrooms are spotless and have the hotel’s same rustic, retro charm, from the exposed copper pipes to mosaic-tiled vanities and brass sinks in some rooms. 

The hotel’s rooftop restaurant and bar is a charming place to enjoy great Thai and international dishes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Meals are often prepared with items from the hotel’s garden, which is also on the roof. An organic, mainly vegetarian breakfast is free with every booking and served in the hotel’s quaint courtyard amid the greenery and chirping birds. The hotel has an activity room with a hand-cranked printing press, upright piano, sewing studio, and plenty of free monthly classes, from sewing to soap carving. A teaching kitchen that looks straight out of a vintage Thai film offers free Thai cooking classes, and reasonably priced guided walking tours of historic sights are also available. Just off the courtyard, a small shop sells natural oils and a variety of Thai handicrafts, while on the other side of the courtyard there is a kids' area with a slide, rocking horse, and swings. The hotel has a small Thai massage room and can arrange ticket bookings for guests or hold luggage after checkout. Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel, and coin-operated laundry facilities are available during the day.