Tamukami Hotel

The compact size of the Tamukami Hotel means that things here stay blissfully quiet -- though that's also due, in part, to its location down a long driveway off of Sanur's main road. At first the traditional pagoda-style architecture and intricate artwork throughout the common areas looks just like the many quote-unquote traditional hotels up and down Sanur's main road. Instead, the sheer volume of local art, the compact layout, and the low-key vibe makes this a charming place to escape the bustle of everyday life. When we visited, many of the hotel's guests were lounging under fans in the open-air restaurant, sipping coffees on their terraces, and laying about the lovely courtyard pool. All of this was being done in near silence or hushed tones, which most previous guests here appreciate. While there's a lot of character at this property, rates are a bit steep, particularly as it's not exactly convenient to the beach. Expect to see lots of retirement-age European couples at Tamukami, which isn't surprising given the sedate atmosphere and convincingly antique style.

The north end of Sanur's main drag is our favorite because it's more low key than what's on offer around the tony resorts at the southern end of town. Tamukami's location puts spots like Warung Little Bird, The Glass House, and The Owl within an easy five-minute walk for great food and drink. The Sindhu Night Market -- a good option for travelers looking to try authentic Indonesian food -- is also only five minutes away on foot. There are all manner of bars, tourist shops, and cafes along Jalan Danau Tamblingan in either direction, as well as plenty of other hotels. However, beach access isn't direct here, and you have to skirt around the beachfront properties in either direction to access the sand. Expect a 10- to 15-minute walk to get to one of two public access roads, though cabs can make the trip in less than half that time. Budget at least 40 minutes to reach the party areas in Kuta by taxi as traffic in southern Bali is a nightmare. The airport should take 20 minutes to reach by car in normal traffic, though -- again -- road conditions aren't exactly predictable.

The rooms here are simple, but they're in better shape than many of the hotels that we saw on our 2017 visit to Sanur. They're also some of the most spacious, with even entry-level rooms having nearly 40 square meters (431 square feet) of space. White walls are hung with intricately carved local artwork that adds some personality, and the dark hardwood furniture is offset by colorful pieces like antiqued trunks. White tile floors are spotless and the furniture is all in good condition. Standard features include air-conditioning, flat-screen TVs, free Wi-Fi, minibars, and terraces or balconies with seating. Two bottles of water are provided per day for free. While the rooms are clean and attractive, the bathrooms are looking a little tired, though even Superior Rooms have separate showers and bathtubs. Expect a bit of mineral deposits and/or mildew, though this is almost a given in Bali's tropical climate. As the hotel is set off of the main road, rooms are well-protected against traffic noise.

Features are slim here, which is part of the reason that the beachfront-equivalent rates can be a little disappointing. However, what's on offer is generally a welcome addition to a stay here, and when we were there the pool proved to be one of its most popular features. Indeed, it's a stunning bi-level courtyard space with the sound of trickling water adding even more calm. There are a number of sun loungers, and the freeform shape and central location make it feel almost like a lagoon. An open-air restaurant serves a mix of Western and Indonesian food and there's live local entertainment on select nights. Bikes are available for rent and there's a small boutique plus a reading room with a computer. While the hotel has a massage room, there is no full-time therapist on-site and treatments must be arranged in advance. Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel. Unfortunately, there is no beach shuttle.