Pertiwi Resort & Spa

Built in the early 1990s, the Pertiwi Resort & Spa can be charming or in urgent need of some love, depending on one’s point of view. The grounds are gorgeous and peaceful, with rolling hills covered in tropical plants, and a lovely creek with a small stone bridge over it. Weathered stone walls with carvings covered in moss, and small ponds with lotus flowers give the property a slight ancient Balinese temple feel that's inviting. The hotel is divided into two sections separated by the creek, which helps keep the atmosphere quiet and serene. But this layout also makes for long, steep walks that can be slippery when wet between some guest rooms and common areas. There is one golf cart to help with hills available on request. 

The hotel has been renovated several times over the last two decades, but some areas are already past their prime. We were told during our early 2017 visit that the hotel is planning to renovate the oldest rooms, the spa, and the restaurant in the near future, but the manager wasn’t able to specify when. The resort can be busy at certain times of the day, particularly when the many French and Chinese tour groups staying here arrive or depart, but the vibe is otherwise laid-back. We coincided with one of those groups during our visit, and although there was some noise around the main pool, the atmosphere was more lively than loud.

Pertiwi Resort & Spa is located on Monkey Forest Road, one of central Ubud’s most famous streets. There are dozens of restaurants, cafes, and shops within a few blocks of the hotel, and the Sacred Monkey Forest is just a 15-minute walk away. The back of the property opens directly onto Bisma Street, a much quieter, quaint street lined with restaurants and hotels. The Ubud Market, Ubud Palace, and the Yoga Barn -- Ubud’s best-known yoga studio -- are also within a 10- to 15-minute walk of the hotel. Other major attractions, such as the charming Campuhan Temple (also known as Pura Gunung Lebah) and the excellent Blanco and Arma museums can be reached in about five to 10 minutes by car. Ngurah Rai International Airport is about a 90-minute drive from the hotel.

Guest rooms at this resort are a mixed bag -- some show extensive wear and have maintenance issues, while others feature a more contemporary style and newer amenities. Deluxe Rooms (standard) are the oldest and most run down, with broken air-conditioning units, a strong damp smell (particularly acute in the rainy season), worn furniture, and mildew in bathrooms. Super Deluxe units are newer, but maintenance can be somewhat lacking as well. All rooms, though, are spacious and light, with large windows opening to patios or terraces. Decor is simple and generic throughout, with white tile floors, basic wooden furniture with clean lines, and pops of red in bed runners and accent pillows. Some rooms have large paintings with traditional motifs, but for the most part, walls are kept bare. 

Villas are generally in better shape, and feature private gardens with plunge pools, and covered terraces with patio furniture. Decor is the same as in guest rooms, but thatched ceilings add local charm, and walls are hung with traditional Balinese tapestries or paintings. Bathrooms in villas have great indoor-outdoor design with large sunken tubs, a mix of wood and black stone finishes, and separate showers. Two-Bedroom Villas have kitchenettes. 

All rooms and villas feature air-conditioning, flat-screen TVs, minibars, and electric kettles with free tea and coffee. Wi-Fi is free throughout the property, but it can be spotty, even in common areas. 

The hotel has two pools, both with infinity edges overlooking the gardens, and a few loungers. The pool by the lobby has a shallower area for children and can be a little loud sometimes, but there is a slightly smaller one set deeper in the gardens that tends to draw couples looking for some peace and quiet. The restaurant offers Indonesian cuisine that's decent but nothing to write home about, and there's a shaded patio with additional seating, but breakfast isn't included in all rates, which is a rarity in Bali. There's a lounge directly above, which has a standard drink menu and a few couches. 

Tucked away in the gardens, the spa feels intimate and peaceful, but it's in need of renovations. Its four treatment rooms are housed in charming thatched pavilions set around a manicured garden with a running fountain and a couple of stone statues. Each treatment room features an outdoor area with a deep soaking tub and a shower. The spa also has a whirlpool that guests can use free of charge before or after their massage. There's no fitness center, but the hotel offers free yoga and Balinese dance classes twice per week. There's also a meeting room that can accommodate up to 60 guests, and there's a golf cart available upon request to help guests get around the sprawling property.